The London Lounge

First of all, I would like to thank Michael Alden for admitting me as a member of the London Lounge and also a big hello to everyone here. I have been a lurker for some time on this forum and have finally decided to post after commissioning my first bespoke suit yesterday. Just wanted to share some of my thoughts on my first tentative steps in the world of bespoke. But before I go any further I thought I would just say a word of thanks to you all for sharing your deep knowledge on the world of bespoke here on the internet - I would never have gotten the courage or the know-how to get started otherwise! Special word of thanks to Manton, Alden and Mr Frog in Suit - I have found your posts very enjoyable.

Anyway, I visited a tailor just off Savile Row yesterday and commissioned a SB 2 button suit in navy blue. It is of medium weight as I intend to wear the suit all year round - I plan to wear it once a week at work and also for special occasions (e.g. weddings, important client meetings etc). It has been a good and informative experience so far. The tailor first started of by showing me the different types of canvasses that would be used (chest canvas, body canvas) and the some of the suits that were in varying stages of completion so that I had some idea of how the suits look like as they were getting made. We then discussed the kind of cut I wanted (which worked well with his house-style). I was looking for something on the more structured side of the scale with some waist suppression and a flared skirt. We then spent some time talking about the various cloths that would fit my needs and the measurements were taken. I was also given a tour of the workrooms below the tailoring shop front. Suffice to say, all in all I learnt quite a bit of new things during the 2.5 hours I spent at the tailor's yesterday!

I will be going back for my first fitting in 3-4 weeks time. I am really looking forward to it.

On the subject of lining, what would be the preference of the gentlemen on this forum? I am tempted to just stick with a matching lining to have the suit as understated as possible. Some of my suits have a claret lining which is quite nice but I have gotten quite used to that already. I liked a pink lining very much (which may exposed me as a man of questionable taste to the members of the London Lounge!) but I was afraid that such a light coloured lining might get dirty too easily.

Best regards,

Adrian

If it is your single, best go-to suit, get the matching lining. If it proves to be boring, you can always go nuts with your shirt, socks, and tie.

Concordia wrote:If it is your single, best go-to suit, get the matching lining. If it proves to be boring, you can always go nuts with your shirt, socks, and tie.

Much as I like bright linings, for your first suit I would agree. You doubtless will have more. As they say: "Once you have had bespoke, there is no going back!"

Frog in Suit

I would have to disagree: I see no harm whatever in having a bright lining. When the coat is worn it will only be glimpsed by others.

If you prefer a half way house then get a lining in blue a few shades lighter than the cloth.

DFR wrote:I would have to disagree: I see no harm whatever in having a bright lining. When the coat is worn it will only be glimpsed by others.

If you prefer a half way house then get a lining in blue a few shades lighter than the cloth.

All right, then! This sounds like a good compromise. Either way, the lining is not that important. Who will see it?

Frog in Suit

Frog in Suit wrote: "Once you have had bespoke, there is no going back!"

Frog in Suit

How true that is Mr Frog, I was in Birmingham today and went to have a look at some decent RTW suits (by name that is) but once I started to look closely it was obvious that while they were much less in cost they were also far poorer in quality.

I too am now doomed forever to go bespoke!

OldBill wrote:

Frog in Suit wrote: "Once you have had bespoke, there is no going back!"

Frog in Suit

How true that is Mr Frog, I was in Birmingham today and went to have a look at some decent RTW suits (by name that is) but once I started to look closely it was obvious that while they were much less in cost they were also far poorer in quality.

I too am now doomed forever to go bespoke!

If you will allow me to say so: things could be worse

Frog in Suit

PS: That brings me back to my belief that, once one has built up a reasonable bespoke wardrobe, with its attendant "start-up" expense (and if one chooses well the cloth, as well as the cut of one's clothes), the actual cost over one's lifetime is less than that incurred for RTW.

Frog,

you are quite right, the slight problem that I have is that I have come to both the understanding and the means to enter the world of bespoke later in life than I now would have preferred, and I fear most of the clothes I now buy will outlive me!

Still better to have arrived late then never to have arrived at all.

OldBill wrote:Frog,

you are quite right, the slight problem that I have is that I have come to both the understanding and the means to enter the world of bespoke later in life than I now would have preferred, and I fear most of the clothes I now buy will outlive me!

Still better to have arrived late then never to have arrived at all.

If it makes you feel any better, I am much in the same position.

It also appears that my two sons (aged 16 and 14) most likely will grow to be taller than I am, so I cannot even use the old wheeze that "my boys will wear them when I am gone!"

Frog in Suit

Gentlemen,

Thank you very much for your thoughts so far. I have pretty much decided to go with a matching lining.

In response to OldBill's and Frog in Suit's postings on the cost of bespoke actually being cheaper in the long run - this is what I had been using to justify to myself the large financial outlay of going bespoke. I try to tell myself that the cost isn't too great if a suit costing around £2,500 or thereabouts can be worn over a 10 to 15 year time frame. Most people my age (I am relatively young - 27 yrs) would balk at the high cost of bespoke garments - I do too but then I start spreading the cost over a decade or so and I start to feel better!

Truth be told, the main reason why I am going bespoke is partly because RTW doesn't really fit me (I am a 36) and I am not entirely satisfied with my foray into MTM so far. Also, whilst I have a few bespoke suits (or so the tailor claims) made in SE Asia that fits well they never seem to be able to deliver the look I am looking for - structured chest, waist suppression and flared skirt.

Adrian,

while I do sympathise with you on the cost, it may be that you can start a little lower down but still get very good results. Much as I would love to have a wardrobe full of SR suits my wallet nor wife's patience will not stretch that far.

I have though found a tailor in Birmingham who charges around half the price I would pay in SR but produces me garments that while perhaps not quite up to the standard of SR are excellent and produced locally.

I also feel that i am helping keep going a dying craft in the provinces. My chap was telling me that when he started as an apprentice 40 years ago there were 190 craftsmen making bespoke garments in Birmingham now there are 3.

The fact that he is still going is testament to two things; his workmanship and his uncanny ability to get me planning my next suit as his assistant is packing up the one he has just finished!!

One thing I can assure you is the moment you put the finished article on you will feel however much you have spent is worth it!

I've followed a similar path, going from RTW to MTM to bespoke. I'm not sure you can justify expensive bespoke on the grounds that it is more cost-effective in the long term. No matter how many more years a bespoke suit might last you, it is still thousands of dollars.

For me, the real value of bespoke is getting what you really want. The extra couple of thousand it might cost you over very good MTM can make a lot of sense to spend if you wind up buying fewer suits that make you happier.

mafoofan wrote:I've followed a similar path, going from RTW to MTM to bespoke. I'm not sure you can justify expensive bespoke on the grounds that it is more cost-effective in the long term. No matter how many more years a bespoke suit might last you, it is still thousands of dollars.

For me, the real value of bespoke is getting what you really want. The extra couple of thousand it might cost you over very good MTM can make a lot of sense to spend if you wind up buying fewer suits that make you happier.

I think this is a very good point. You take part in a creative process between yourself and your tailor and really get what you want.

Bespoke takes time. My tailor (a woman) is so busy that she doesnt have time until august to attend me. But I am happy to wait for her. I know that the result will be excellent, and at the same time I get time to save the necessary money for my suit...

Good luck!