The London Lounge

Harmonious contrasts

I see pictures of odd coats on the internet often worn with either very hard contrasts or no contrast at all between coat and trouser colors. What we aim for is a harmonious contrast.

The illustration below shows dark brown cord trousers being paired with a Prince of Wales check tweed coat. The check is a dark brown and mid brown with a large crimson windowpane. The dark brown in the check of the coat is in harmony with the dark brown in the trouser. The mid brown and crimson are in contrast. The overall effect of the check in the coat is to create a harmonious contrast with the color of the trouser. The crimson windowpane adds just a touch of color that makes the image interesting to the eye.



In the same way, the caramel color of the scarf picks up the light brown in the check of the coat and transmits light from both to the face. Keep light colors around your face, both in the choice of shirt color and accessories.

An example of a no contrast would be pairing the following coat with the dark brown trousers.



The error I most often see however is not this one but the attempt to overplay a contrast as in very dark on very light. No contrast at all is better than the hard contrast, one that should be avoided systematically.

Another example of a harmonious contrast can be seen displayed by one of the masters:



In this summery example in Cannes, Grant is wearing a light colored hopsack blazer with off white flannel or gabardine trousers. The white shirt is in harmony with his trousers and brightens his face. The silk accessories no doubt included some recall in the coat though it is hard to see from this picture. The overall effect of a harmonious contrast is the creation of simple, understated and yet intriguing combinations of colors and forms.

Cheers

M Alden


*Picture of Grant courtesy of http://welldressed.blogg.se/

I think that this is excellent advice here to be used when wearing sports coats.

Harmonious contrast between coat and trousers is essential for a good looking outfit.

Then, adding complementary accessories adds another level of interest, and complication, to the whole process.

It's actually not at all easy to achieve successfully and consistently.

Apart, from contrast considerations, you will often see, 9 times out of 10, people throwing together outfits with colors which have nothing to do with each other (refer to The Sartorialist). Some do this with forethought, thinking it is 'fashion', others out of indifference.

I tend to generally dress indifferently most of the time, so I would fall into the latter camp and so need some help or aide memoire to help me maintain my current membership in LL.

It is often easier to put on what was thrown over the chair last night, but I try to manage my sloth in some formulaic, near rote manner.

I have found one or two general aids which help me, and minimize unnecessary thinking, which I generally don't like to do at all, about dressing
i) wear grey flannel trousers; they more or less go with everything,
ii) wear soft, solid blue shirts, they more or less go with everything,
iii) reach for a solid color tie whose color has something to do with the color of your coat,
iv) wear brown shoes of some sort,
v) spritz cologne,
vi) now put on any sports coat in closet,
vii) grab the nearest, handy silk pouchette and stuff in coat pocket,
viii) put on any tweed cap,
ix) put on any overcoat to keep you warm. And a scarf.
x) repeat

Generally wearing sports coats is great fun. Wearing them with success and some panache requires great skill, sophistication and confidence.

I think that dressing with sports coats is alot more interesting and challenging, than say, suits. Certainly, The Italians can be masters of this genre; they can wear sports coats for businesswear and look very appropriate yet chic and elegant. Personally, I would ban most suits as oppressive and cruel.

Great advice UC

Generally wearing sports coats is great fun. Wearing them with success and some panache requires great skill, sophistication and confidence.

Very true and the move to dress down in many places has led to some pretty sad combinations on display.

And the fad to put anything together that fashion people seem to like is a non starter as well.

Cheers

M Alden

Harmony of contrast is one of my favorite general definitions of beauty.

Now here is a perfectly fine outfit but it just doesn't speak to me.

I suspect that it has something to do with the contrast issue, but can't place my finger on it. Or is it some other issue.....?

Any ideas?

I assume you mean the one on the rigt
I think the jacket (colour, texture) looks like an orphaned suit coat (which it probably is, too!). If you imagine a pair of trousers in the same cloth, the look would be fine.
The trousers lack texture. They also seem to be longing for a coat in the same cloth.
In principle grey and beige can work quite well together, including a blue shirt:

but it takes the right shades and textures.