Assistance please n correcting a fit issue

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Post Reply
Cary Grant
Posts: 105
Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:28 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:07 pm

I have a 4x2 flannel DB jacket that, when closed, "v's" a bit at the bottom. meaning it opens a bit like this: ^ from the button down to the bottom of the coat when standing still/straight.

What about the cut/fit causes this gaping? I'm wondering if it is a little too much waist suppression versus the cut from the waist down?

It was MTM, not Bespoke. Wondering if it can be corrected. If not- I'd like to understand what to discuss with future tailor to correct this.
Leonard Logsdail
Posts: 180
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2005 1:56 am
Location: New York
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:30 pm

Chances are it is either short in the back balance, tight in the hip, too crooked or a combination of the 3.
Cary Grant
Posts: 105
Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:28 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 6:36 pm

I was playing with it in the mirror and I'd say it's likely "tight in the hip".

Thanks, Leonard, for the feedback- without you seeing it- is there, generally, a way to correct that? Can it be let out in a way that is feasible?

I appreciate your expertise. :)
alden
Posts: 8210
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2005 11:58 am
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:21 pm

Thanks, Leonard, for the feedback- without you seeing it- is there, generally, a way to correct that? Can it be let out in a way that is feasible?
A photo of you in the coat would allow us to say which of the three potential problems that Mr. Logsdail has mentioned is the real culprit.

Leonard, nice to see you. Would you say that short back balance and too crooked a coat are the more likely causes? Will a too crooked coat also cause buckling in the lapels?

Cheers

Michael
Cary Grant
Posts: 105
Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:28 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:36 pm

I'll get a photo one of these days... the coat seems "not crooked" to me. It does have a strap made out of the lining that runs around back, holding the back "closed" It has two side vents, and the strap runs from left to right, keeping it closed beneath the back flap.

Is that common?

I really am thinking it's just a bit trim.
Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:50 pm

Cary Grant wrote: It does have a strap made out of the lining that runs around back, holding the back "closed" It has two side vents, and the strap runs from left to right, keeping it closed beneath the back flap.

Is that common?

I really am thinking it's just a bit trim.
:shock: :?:
Leonard Logsdail
Posts: 180
Joined: Sun Feb 20, 2005 1:56 am
Location: New York
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 9:56 pm

Without seeing it, my first guess would be short in the back balance. Always seems to me so many coats are cut like this. As to the lining strap, it's nothing more than a cheat for people who cannot make a coat properly and find they need to add the lining piece in order for the vents to stay closed.

If you want to send me a photograph privately, I will be happy to take a look. actually, I do this a great deal for people in and out of the trade.
Cary Grant
Posts: 105
Joined: Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:28 pm
Contact:

Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:57 pm

Leonard Logsdail wrote:Without seeing it, my first guess would be short in the back balance. Always seems to me so many coats are cut like this. As to the lining strap, it's nothing more than a cheat for people who cannot make a coat properly and find they need to add the lining piece in order for the vents to stay closed.

If you want to send me a photograph privately, I will be happy to take a look. actually, I do this a great deal for people in and out of the trade.
Thanks Leonard- I may just do that.
a tailor
Posts: 65
Joined: Sat Feb 23, 2008 12:14 am
Location: suburban chicago
Contact:

Fri Feb 20, 2009 4:01 am

usually side vents that gap do so because of either of two things.
1. the back is too long.
2. the hip is too tight.
that strap is a poor solution for that gaping. this is separate from the front problem.

the front shoulder is likely too crooked.
the solution is to shift the front shoulder outward.
Post Reply
  • Information
  • Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 78 guests