The London Lounge

Mr. Hackett gets an Italian treatment at Pitti Uomo:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1revai8KRA0

- this Signore Ricci is a sharp dresser, no doubt about that, I think:
http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/1 ... cciWeb.jpg

....if you hide your shoulder, you hide yourself

...

I must agree. I am a fan of moderate roping myself (in the right context), but that is a bit more than a bit much.

jefferyd wrote: The view from the front is quite different. I'm all for the roped shoulder but I don't think this is Mr. Hackett's cup of tea.

They have no padding at all, though, so that should please Alden

And what is happening with the breast pocket?

The dark grey suit is far out. This one is better, although there is still a lot of roping:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/S ... ciweb1.jpg

Roping aside, I would be most curious to understand how he gets into those trousers with cuffs that look no wider than his socks

On the YouTube page there is a link to a video called Il Vestito Giusto- Ricci is being interviewed by the gentleman who was serving as interpreter for Mr. Hackett. In it he makes some very interesting points but it is also punctuated by some pretty ridiculous statements, among others that all his clients, upon being fitted by him, promptly throw out all their previous suits as they consider them unwearable in comparison.

This sort of fancy shoulder was once quite common in the 19th century. I do believe that leg of mutton shoulders are also "soft" shoulders:



Here is another example of a genuinely pleated and soft/natural shoulder on a 19th century men's coat:

A very good friend of mine, vaux le vicomte, was the first one who told me about Sciamat (Valentino Ricci's and his brother's sartoria) a few years ago www.sciamat.com .
Usually, the rollino is quite extreme and the shoulders are pretty narrow.
In the following, I found some more videos which might be of interest to some of you:

An interview in Italian about his style philosophy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlFyWlje ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQoYTQzMkuo

And a video of him at the Pitti in Summer 2008:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSBbberYcvU

The guy with the tough German accent is Michael Jondral, a German haberdasher from Hannover - http://www.michaeljondral.com/

I think Signor Ricci looks rather dreadful in this silhouette.

yachtie wrote:

Except for the beard, the resemblance is astonishing!

A short new interview with Mr Ricci:

http://www.mensflair.com/news/5-questio ... -ricci.php

I think he has a good point about the fashion industry, but what is "Original contemporary classic style"? It sounds just a bit ambiguous.