The London Lounge

Gentlemen,

after the helpful comments on my "posture issue" I would like to follow Mr. Alden's invitation and ask for your feedback on my latest MTM suit and possible directions to improve the overall silhouette with my next suit.

(Right now I am considering another MTM - or I might try a bespoke tailor here in Berlin recommended by a LL member. I guess it will help a lot if I get a better understanding what silhouette fits my posture best.)

1. Mr. Alden recommended "fuller trousers". I read the thread on fuller trousers. I guess I have a relatively long torso and short legs - I am quite tall when sitting for my 6'1". I posted pics. Is it correct that I should look for pants that sit higher (more crotch?) to make them appear longer? My legs are NOT thin, very developed calves and muscular thighs and therefore look a bit stumpy.
Cuffs? Pleats?

2. Should I go for a 2B or 3B SB jacket with my body?

3. Could MTM lead to a "satisficing" result? I guess my bespoke experiments will take some time. I need a few updates in my business wardrobe in the next weeks/months.

I am looking forward to your comments. Please excuse the basic nature of my questions - I hope I will improve fast.

Regards,


Max

(Please excuse the bad photographs - I have read Mr. Aldens article and will produce outdoor shots with natural light next time)

Dear Max,

No. 1 - Yes, full trousers need to sit higher, at the waist level, so that they drape over your hips rather than rest on them. This requires a longer fly. I prefer forward-facing double pleats. Try having them cut for braces, with a slightly longer back rise (not necessarily a fishtail back): they will hang much better. If it's a sober city suit (I assume you'll go for a single breasted), you can leave out the turnups.

No. 2 - 3B with lapels rolled to second or between second and third. Avoid an overly long coat.

No. 3 - it depends... (not helpful, I know)