The London Lounge

Here are some interesting double-breasted styles that intrigue me. I don't think any of them are seen much today, but I don't think they look absolutely un-contemporary. Pictures are from an Edwardian tailor's publication, the Sartorial Art Journal. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience commissioning or wearing such a suit.

First, the chap on the right - a 6 x 3 piece:
(from 1906)


Same for him (1900):


Even more unusual today would be this chap in the middle, from 1902, an 8 x 4:


But most intriguing to me is this one (on the right), from 1906, a 2 x 1:

You are right that the style is not frequently seen these days. It used to be quite popular in the 60s (the button 3 show 3 version), on both sides of the pond albeit sometimes with a collar / lapel shape that reminds one of an Ulster coat (think Austin Powers)... There is an excellent example being worn by George Lazenby in On Her Majesty's Secret Service although in a reefer jacket form rather than in a lounge suit form.

I wear such a suit albeit without a flap on the outbreast pocket. The form is quite dramatic in any fabric so it probably is not for everyone. Mine is in navy with wide and very readable pinstripes, sloped (not slanted) flap hip pockets, ticket pocket and turnback cuffs. In short, it's a very loud suit. The decibel level was kept in check, marginally, only by the fact that I chose horn buttons rather than cloth covered buttons.

I recently had a 6x3 blazer made which shredder would probably say is a reefer jacket. I bought it because of fond memories of the 60's and the Mod look.

There was a guy with a username like Boulaji whose tailor made him a 2x1 DB suit. I recall seeing it on SF. The trick with a suit like that is that there is a lot of coat front and the buttons help break that up. As I recall, Boulaji's example looked clean and minimal without looking like wasteland. The 2x1 illustrated above is much less successful.

culverwood wrote:I recently had a 6x3 blazer made which shredder would probably say is a reefer jacket. I bought it because of fond memories of the 60's and the Mod look.

This is a project that is very much on my radar screen. I'm green with envy!! What sort of buttons did you use?

I already have the buttons. I just need the blazer to be attached to them!!

I have a couple of 6x3's (suits) and am going to commission another one. They're uncommon but occasionally seen.

shredder wrote:

culverwood wrote:I recently had a 6x3 blazer made which shredder would probably say is a reefer jacket. I bought it because of fond memories of the 60's and the Mod look.

This is a project that is very much on my radar screen. I'm green with envy!! What sort of buttons did you use?
I already have the buttons. I just need the blazer to be attached to them!!

Hand engraved gilt brass.

shredder wrote:You are right that the style is not frequently seen these days. It used to be quite popular in the 60s (the button 3 show 3 version), on both sides of the pond albeit sometimes with a collar / lapel shape that reminds one of an Ulster coat (think Austin Powers)... There is an excellent example being worn by George Lazenby in On Her Majesty's Secret Service although in a reefer jacket form rather than in a lounge suit form.

I wear such a suit albeit without a flap on the outbreast pocket. The form is quite dramatic in any fabric so it probably is not for everyone. Mine is in navy with wide and very readable pinstripes, sloped (not slanted) flap hip pockets, ticket pocket and turnback cuffs. In short, it's a very loud suit. The decibel level was kept in check, marginally, only by the fact that I chose horn buttons rather than cloth covered buttons.

Shredder - sounds like a brilliant suit. I'm thinking of having my 6 x 3 suit in a light grey with white pinstripes. You say yours has cuffed sleeves - I'm curious how many sleeve buttons are there, and are all of them within the cuffs?

Also, can I ask what you mean by "sloped, not slanted" pockets? It sounds like the same thing to me - I'd like to know the difference.

Pelham wrote:Shredder - sounds like a brilliant suit. I'm thinking of having my 6 x 3 suit in a light grey with white pinstripes. You say yours has cuffed sleeves - I'm curious how many sleeve buttons are there, and are all of them within the cuffs?

Also, can I ask what you mean by "sloped, not slanted" pockets? It sounds like the same thing to me - I'd like to know the difference.

Thanks. My turnback cuffs, with 4 buttons each, are similar to the one storeynicholas has, as shown in this thread: http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... 78&start=0. The principal difference is that on his, 3 out of 4 appear to be visible when fastened whereas all 4 are visible on mine, that is, set a bit further up from the edge.

By "sloped rather than slanted," all I mean is that it is at a more subtle angle than the typical hacking pockets slanted at close to 45°. But don't ask me what the exact angle is!

I actually had a photo of my cuff, which also gives a hint of the hip pocket "slant," so here it is. Sorry, I don't have a photo of the whole jacket...

You'll recall how the concept of the 2X1 DB had a brief comeback in the horrid creations of 1980's fashion designers. The model illustrated here is much more sober, yet I can't help thinking that it would end up appearing extremely dandy-ish and head-turning if worn today. That isn't so much a judgment on the merits of that style, but rather on what would be an almost inevitable consequence of its revival.