The London Lounge

This is the last suit I commissioned, from Chan of HK. I'm not wearing the original waistcoat.

Please comment especially on how the fit looks - it's a touch slimmer than what I've had in the past. Just a nip. Did my tailor do a good job?

I'm happy with the results, but I'd like to have a stranger's opinion.

Coat is two-buttoned, notch lapelled, trousers have medium-high waist and are unpleated. The fabric is an 11 oz wool/mohair blend in a warm-grey glen plaid with a faint blue overcheck.

(Sorry about the waistcoat - it's an off-the-rack piece that I wore today with this suit, for fun, but maybe I should've worn the original for these pictures. I don't feel like doing it over again, though).

Maybe I should post a smaller picture so it's easier to see the whole thing on your screen:

In order to comment in this suit properly it would be necessary to have a view of:

The trousers back and front without the coat
The trousers meeting your shoes.

Can you do these three please?

The inside of the coat is also a valuable resource.

DFR wrote:In order to comment in this suit properly it would be necessary to have a view of:

The trousers back and front without the coat
The trousers meeting your shoes.

Can you do these three please?

The inside of the coat is also a valuable resource.

And a picture with the coat buttoned.

Alright, fair enough. Here tis -

Pelham, the fit of the coat looks fine to me from the front, given the way it was cut: lean, as you mentioned yourself. A bit of drape would not hurt. My only observation is that the fronts should stay roughly in the same position whether buttoned or not and not spread so much with the buttons undone. Does the coat have side vents?
Personally I would like to see a bit more width and roll to the lapels - they are pretty "dry" as they are. The sleeve and shoulder look fine - hopefully from the back, too.
I can't see the trousers too well, but I prefer a fuller cut.
What I like a lot is the cut of your shirt's collar!

that's a nice dotted tie, but it doesn't go well with a plaid shirt. the rest looks normal.

Costi: one of the things I like about very generously draped trousers, when they're done *just so*, is how clean the outline of the trousers can look. The exemplar of this type, in my mind, was David Suchet in "Poirot". Despite his rotundity, he had an immaculate silhouette. I will probably try it someday. For now I mostly like to wear lean - it has its own aesthetic virtues.

Yeah, it has two side vents. I don't like a center vent on a single-breasted. The roll of the lapels is actually pretty good - it doesn't show on these bad pictures of mine.

santy: I think you're right; that was the first and last time I'll do that tie/shirt pairing.

I wish you that "some day" arrives sooner than later, so you won't already have a closet full of clothes when you discover the benefits of the full cut I have enough "moderate rise", belted trousers at home (part of suits and odd) that haven't seen the light of day in years, so I speak from experience. Of course, my experience needn't necessarily be your experience, but you know why the bear has short tail and ears: they tore his ears pulling him to the bee hive and then torn his tail trying to pull him away from it.

I would have to agree that a fuller cut would look better on you - this has the look of being ever so slightly pre0dating a little change in your weight.

The trouser break is fine though. Do the back pockets not have buttons? I fear you will find that they might benefit from being kept fastened.

A good first try.

DFR- my sincere thanks;for the record, it's actually my third try at bespoke. But no one who had ever met me in person would imagine I had recently put on weight! In fact I'm flattered- I'm usually more concerned about people noticing how damned skinny I am. I realize more drape could be a method of concealing it.

I know I'm probably going against the grain in choosing a silhouette that's more Edwardian than mid-century. I like both styles, though.

Pelham, where did those pictures go? The whole thread is pointless without the object of the discussion...

Mr Alden can remove it if it's taking up space ; )

I regret that our advice and opinions are just taking up space