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Picture request - DB Peak lapel, Velvet collar Overcoat

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 7:35 pm
by Simon
I'm looking for a photo (and if possible, the correct name) of an overcoat - double breasted, peak lapel with a velvet collar, and ideally some waist suppression. Can anyone help? Thank you in advance...

Posted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:22 pm
by marcelo
Dear Simon

could it be the OC you are in search for? These pictures have been posted in another thread called "A Near All-Purpose Winter Topcoat":
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... 7&start=15


Image


Image

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:04 am
by Leon
The chap on the left is wearing such an overcoat

Image

Leon

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 12:27 am
by marcelo
As for the correct name of the OC at issue here, is it a Polo? This coat seems not to have the velvet collar, but it matches the other features mentioned. There is an ongoing thead on Polo; do not fail to have a look on this thread:
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... highlight=

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 4:16 am
by Jordan Marc
Leon:

In your photo, the third figure on the right nearest the centre is the legendary T.E. Lawrence. Unlike Peter O'Toole, who stands 6 feet 3, Lawrence was a diminutive 5 feet 3.

JMB

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 2:27 pm
by Sator
Image

This style of revers is referred to correctly as "double breasted" or "pointed". On jackets they may also be called "reefer collars". "Peaked lapel" is an Americanism.

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:53 pm
by angelo
Simon,
this could be the DB overcoat with peaked lapels and velvet collar You were looking for..
It is a more citified version of the classical covertcoat as it does not have the stitching rows at the hem and at the sleeves.

The picture is a courtesy of www.asuitablewardrobe.blogspot.com and You can see it at the following URL address
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/S ... t+coat.JPG

Angelo

Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:12 pm
by Simon
Thank you all for the comments and photos - there are one or two that really hit the spot, especially the image Angelo posted. Thus far I'd been using this as my model, but removing the turn-back cuffs and potentially breast pocket;

Image

Having said all of that, the coat with Persian Lamb lapels is outstanding, even if it's perhaps a step too far for daily wear

Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:36 am
by marcelo
The overcoat with Astrakhan collar belonged to the Duke of Windsor, and was given to him by a friend in the 1930's. According to a catalogue by Sotheby's, the picture below shows him – as King Edward VIII – wearing the very same OC at the funeral procession of his father. Interestingly enough, he did not like this coat very much. In A Family Album, he explains:

“My grandfather, who liked to wear a coat with Astrakhan collar, might not have scorned this one of mine… I wear this one less often, because of its cut which suggests rather the fashions of an earlier age. For it hangs in pleats from the waist downwards, and reaches almost my ankles as low as those overcoats which London cabbies used to wear in my youth.”

Image

But something puzzles me: if the Duke is in the middle of the photograph, as I suppose he is, he seems not to be wearing the very same OC with Astrakhan collar, for the collar is only partially furred, differently from the collar depicted above. Any comments?

Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:24 pm
by angelo
The Duke's brother (first on the left) ,the future king George VI , has a very similar overcoat with a full Astrakhan collar.
However in this case the pockets are not slanted and the last line of buttons is higher than that of the Duke's OC
Marcelo ,thanks for the very interesting image,


Angelo

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:29 pm
by Tone Loki
The astrakhan collar (or half collar) is definitely the way to go - I bought a length of it 53" by 13" recently with the express purpose of getting a coat made...

What I can't decide on is whether to go for camel hair, charcoal, midnight blue or black...

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 6:47 pm
by storeynicholas
Tone Loki wrote:The astrakhan collar (or half collar) is definitely the way to go - I bought a length of it 53" by 13" recently with the express purpose of getting a coat made...

What I can't decide on is whether to go for camel hair, charcoal, midnight blue or black...
You can also get it in brown and grey.
NJS

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:10 pm
by Tone Loki
True - But I have a chocolate brown Ulster/Polo and a charcoal grey covert coat..

My natural instinct is to go for a DB camel hair with the shawl collar, but I am worried it will look a little too All Capone..

Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 7:44 pm
by storeynicholas
Tone Loki wrote:True - But I have a chocolate brown Ulster/Polo and a charcoal grey covert coat..

My natural instinct is to go for a DB camel hair with the shawl collar, but I am worried it will look a little too All Capone..
I think that, if it is black fur, a black cloth would be best. Black trimmings on midnight blue or even navy blue suggest evening wear. On self-coloured camel hair it might indeed have a touch of Al Capone and, although this isn't Al Capone (it's script-writer Gene Markey with then wife, Hedy Lamarr - not sure of his fur, possibly musquash - but not astrakhan), maybe in 2009, this isn't the look to aim for -

Image

I've put my own version up before but I do think that it works - the pattern style came straight out of Thornton's pattern book as the cutter and I looked it up together -

Image
NJS[/img]

Posted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:28 pm
by Tone Loki
Marvellous! Black it is...

Nicholas - In your opinion, would black be a suitable colour for day and evening wear?