The London Lounge

Hi, i have been lurking a while on LL, so i thought it was about time to join up and introduce myself. I was an apprentice at Henry Poole many years ago (when they were in Cork Street) however i have been out of the trade for the last 28 years or so.
Reading the LL forums has given me the urge to start making again, so i have set up a little workshop at home, mainly to make for myself (my daughter is getting married next year and i need the practice) I have just finished cutting an overcoat for myself, and it is amazing how (all my college books have long gone) i can remember most of the principles for cutting a well balanced coat. Hopefully i can still remember how to sew.

Welcome to the Lounge! Particularly with your training and experience, Jukes, we'll all look forward to your participation here.

Jukes,

Welcome!

It would be interesting to compare Poole's work then and now -- if you have a chance to do so.

Andrey

The overcoat is finished apart from buttonholes, buttons and final pressing. Bearing in mind that i have been out of the trade for many years, there has been sadly, a drastic change to the bespoke tailoring trade. Suppliers of good quality fabrics and trimmings in the West end, which were plentiful 30 years ago have all but dissapeared, very few remain and the costs of the ones that do are incredible (how Saville Row survives with their overheads i dont know)
I think the forthcoming recession will see a few more famous houses either going under or moving away from Saville Row.

At this moment i am trying to locate a sleeveboard with no success (i will probably have to get a carpenter to make one) and buttonhole twist and gimp to complete my overcoat.

Jukes wrote:The overcoat is finished apart from buttonholes, buttons and final pressing. Bearing in mind that i have been out of the trade for many years, there has been sadly, a drastic change to the bespoke tailoring trade. Suppliers of good quality fabrics and trimmings in the West end, which were plentiful 30 years ago have all but dissapeared, very few remain and the costs of the ones that do are incredible (how Saville Row survives with their overheads i dont know)
I think the forthcoming recession will see a few more famous houses either going under or moving away from Saville Row.

At this moment i am trying to locate a sleeveboard with no success (i will probably have to get a carpenter to make one) and buttonhole twist and gimp to complete my overcoat.

I feel your pain. The few sleeveboards available on this side of the pond are all junk, and Gutermann has begun imposing a one box per colour minimum for silk twist or gimp- $140 each time I need a new colour! Someone suggested www.richardjamesweldon.com to me as a good source but since they are on your side I have not checked them out. If you do, let me know what you find!

J

Jeffryd,
I must have walked up and down Berwick Street three times yesterday, Richard James Weldon are supposed to be at No 60 and i did not see the shop !! They are supposed to have a warehouse in Sidcup which is not to far from where i live so i will pay them a visit when the festivities are over and post on here.
If Guterman are only selling by the box, then i am afraid that is another nail in the coffin for the bespoke trade, as the remaining independent trouser / coatmakers will struggle to afford a box every time they make a garment.

Jukes
Richard James Weldon supposedly still sell the small reels which is why I came to know about them. It is indeed becoming difficult to get supplies so I do look forward to hearing about your experience with them.

J

jefferyd wrote:Jukes
Richard James Weldon supposedly still sell the small reels which is why I came to know about them. It is indeed becoming difficult to get supplies so I do look forward to hearing about your experience with them.

J

I went to Richard James Weldon this morning, they do indeed supply buttonhole twist and gimp (Guterman) i will PM you with the details.