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A new suit

Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:05 pm
by tazmaniac
I just took delivery of this suit, the first from this tailor for me. The pattern has since been remade and changed for the second suit, which promises to come along nicely. However, I am very happy with the outcome of the first one and the growing relationship with my tailor.

Image

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:39 am
by rs232
That's a great looking fabric you've chosen.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:28 am
by TimMureau
It is a wonderfull suit!
My complements for you and your tailor.

Tim Mureau

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:25 pm
by alden
A nice bit of dressing and an excellent first suit. I would only suggest you raise the pockets 1 cm or so. It would give the coat a bit more line.

Cheers

Michael

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:44 pm
by tazmaniac
I have a little issue with the sleeve pitch on the right sleeve, but I think it's best to wear the suit for some time and have a look at it during the next meeting with my tailor.

The pocket issue is probably addressed in my second suit, as we shortened the coat a little on this one. The pattern has since been redone and will also have smaller armholes and single forward pleats on the trousers. The second suit will be a three-piece in navy blue.

Thank you for the comments so far!

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 2:51 pm
by Richard3
Very nice suit. I rarely see a good looking and well balanced "one-button" jacket.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 3:31 pm
by tazmaniac
I chose the one-button because I believe it is well suited to a shorter person like me (a hair over 5' 8")

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:15 pm
by couch
I echo the compliments. The main thing the photo would make me want to check is the shoulder width and sleeve placement. The dents under the roping, especially on your right sleeve (left as we view) make me wonder whether the shoulders might be a touch narrow. The sleeve-pitch issue you mention might be responsible, but in any case it would be nice to see the sleeves fall more smoothly onto the upper arm. It's possible the effect is to some extent an artifact of holding your arms forward, but I'd look into it. As Michael has observed, many tailors these days, including SR firms, want to cut narrow shoulders. Judging from the width of your head, a little extra width in the shoulders would balance well.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 9:15 pm
by Cufflink79
Great looking suit Tazmaniac.

What type of venting for jacket did you have done?

Also, do the trouser have pleats?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:42 pm
by storeynicholas
couch wrote:I echo the compliments. The main thing the photo would make me want to check is the shoulder width and sleeve placement. The dents under the roping, especially on your right sleeve (left as we view) make me wonder whether the shoulders might be a touch narrow. The sleeve-pitch issue you mention might be responsible, but in any case it would be nice to see the sleeves fall more smoothly onto the upper arm. It's possible the effect is to some extent an artifact of holding your arms forward, but I'd look into it. As Michael has observed, many tailors these days, including SR firms, want to cut narrow shoulders. Judging from the width of your head, a little extra width in the shoulders would balance well.
I agree with all of this - especially the fact that you are holding your arms forward for a picture - many of us do this - and, so the shoulders look a bit 'skimped' - but this may well be just because of your stance.
NJS

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:01 pm
by tazmaniac
Actually, it was me pressing for narrower shoulders, but I think the picture exaggerates this. This picture looks more natural:

Image

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:26 pm
by storeynicholas
Did you really press for narrow shoulders and, if so, why?
NJS

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 7:11 am
by tazmaniac
My choice of words may have been a bit drastic. After the first fitting, I requested the shoulders be cut a bit closer, that's all. I like my clothing a bit trimmer.

The jacket is double vented, trousers plain fronted, but the next pair will have single forward pleats.

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 7:54 am
by storeynicholas
I think that it might look better if you allowed the tailor to decide the shoulders. However, apart from that, to me, it looks a fine suit.
NJS

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:28 am
by tazmaniac
I agree it looks a bit odd in the first picture, but in real life, I find the look very pleasing. It is not that I pressed my tailor to go narrower on the shoulders than he would have recommended. Still, I am very much looking forward to the second suit with the revised pattern.

Thank you for all the compliments and recommendations.