The London Lounge

As I mentioned by way of introduction, I find myself working in the law courts on a day-to-day basis. The Bar has a fairly strict dress code where the criminal courts are concerned; essentially, as I understand it, you don't show your shirt to the judge. Thus, a three-piece (my preference) or a DB is de rigeur.

This is less hard-and-fast in the county and magistrates' courts; waistcoats are rarer and most people favour single-breasted suits. I suspect this may be at least partly down to the fact that barristers rarely robe in these courts; in the Crown Court, a splash of colour or a two-piece suit can look a bit at odds with the black gown and the horsehair. I tend to favour a monochrome approach when robing; black or grey three-piece and white shirt (collar and bands being white).

In the county courts, however, I welcome the chance to be a little more colourful. The question, then, is this; is a one-button suit less formal than a two-button suit, and a two-button in turn less formal than a three-button, or is it more complicated than that? I rather like the idea of a one-button suit for some situations, and I've seen some lovely ones around, but I'd rather shy away from them if I couldn't use them in work situations (thus rendering it a 'casual' suit, which seems something of a contradiction in terms). I never do up the second button of a two-button anyway, so it seems a small step from there to a one-button.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

I think that one button is the most formal single-breasted suit (as it resembles formal wear more), but three buttons is more formal than two, as it is more habille.

Personally, I feel one buttons coats are only more formal if worn with a waistcoat. Otherwise, it is just a flashy fashion detail.

This business of omitting waistcoats was originally something of an Americanism. For some reason the American way has come to dominate the world and even the English take it for granted. I suspect the Duke of Windsor had much to do with that, for as a fanatical Americanophile he even abdicated the British throne to marry an American.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Come to think of it, I'm inclined agree with Sator's point on waistcoats (which is not incompatible with my initial answer). In fact, I would say that the most formal configuration for a lounge suit is peak-lapel SB, one button coat, DB waistcoat, no vents. Of course the suit becomes less formal as side vents are added, lapels become notched and the vest becomes SB.

On the other hand, I have seen a number of one-button Rubinacci sportscoats which do not appear flashy at all. It's just that sartoria's general philosophy of avoiding buttons that will never be fastened. For example, this is from a LL member's blog:

http://mfanblog.blogspot.com/2008/10/snapshot-8.html

And this is mr Rubinacci Jr:

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/8310/imgp1047ei0.jpg

I sometimes think that the one-button sportscoat is to the two-button one what the four-button DB coat (with all four buttons working) is to the more widely seen six-button one (I mean the sort with two non-working chest buttons).

Sator wrote:Personally, I feel one buttons coats are only more formal if worn with a waistcoat. Otherwise, it is just a flashy fashion detail.

This business of omitting waistcoats was originally something of an Americanism. For some reason the American way has come to dominate the world and even the English take it for granted. I suspect the Duke of Windsor had much to do with that, for as a fanatical Americanophile he even abdicated the British throne to marry an American.

True, an article from the Esquire, published in 1944, proclaims: “GO VENTLESS, YOUNG MAN”. But I do know how much Americanism should be blamed for the decline of vest – or waistcoat. As public buildings and work premises at large became more efficiently heated, many men may have felt they might as well go ventless. Perhaps this was initially an American tendency because their buildings were better heated than elsewhere, though I suggest this merely on hypothetical grounds.
But now, in the face of climate change and financial crises, the wise choice seems to be to turn the heating off and go three-pieced again.

marcelo wrote:[
But now, in the face of climate change and financial crises, the wise choice seems to be to turn the heating off and go three-pieced again.

Yes, quite right - and have your cloths made of climate appropriate weaves, fibres and weights. I think the modern over-reliance on CO2 producing devices to remain comfortable is the cause of this nonsense about wearing t-shirts and "all season" cloths in the winter. It is time we made dressing politically correct again.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

And now I realise: to compound removal of one’s tonsils with disposal of one’s vest does only make things worse…