The London Lounge

Does anyone know if there are any bespoke sweater makers out there?

There are many good RTW makers out there, but the other day I was thinking if somebody had an idea for a unique color or pattern where they'd go to have it made.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

Dear Cufflink79:

You might ask Dege. A few years ago, they made a lovely sweater for my father. Unfortunately, however, I don't know whether this was true bespoke or more along the lines of MTM.

Best regards,

If you search here (or at asuitablewardrobe.com) for bespoke Shetland sweaters, you may get some helpful addresses.

One option if you have your own pattern in mind: in most good-sized cities there will be craft knitters and professional knitters who work out of their homes. Some of these have knitting machines that can do finer gauge stitches. If you want something along the lines of the standard Shetland gauge or coarser, you should have no trouble finding a local knitter who can help design and make it to your desired size, length, sleeve length, etc. The best way to find these is to locate the better yarn and knitters' supply shops and inquire of the staff as to skilled knitters who take commissions. This is also the most direct way to find competent people to repair snags and (heaven forbid) moth holes.

If you just need sized sweaters in set patterns, as Concordia says Doreen at the Shetland Collection is lovely to deal with. The vests they produced for the LL limited edition project came out well and were quite reasonable in cost.

If you're looking for bespoke in very fine gauge luxury yarns like cashmere or fine merino, the only source I know is Poole. I'm sure there must be a more direct source, and I'd love to know of it if anyone turns one up.

I've just commissioned a vest from a website called Thistle and Broom. It's a fair isle knitted in a pattern and colors of my choosing. My tailor sent them my measurements. I have a 10 inch drop, so RTW sweaters that fit in the shoulders and chest tend to bag at the waist. This one will fit--so they say. It is being knitted in the Shetland Islands at this writing.

Do you gentlemen want a report when it's delivered?

Please do-- also reports on the ordering process.

BTW, following some leads in their website I found a source of some very nice-looking tweeds:

http://www.ardalanishfarm.co.uk/organic_tweeds.htm

+1 on the report, Carl. I have nearly as large a drop, a slightly short waist, and long arms, so this could be a real find if good quality. Thanks for the alert.

This question comes up periodically. There are a few places that will make cashmere sweaters to order, which generally means to a given size (40, 42, etc.) and to one of a set of colors (the Todd & Duncan yarn book is gorgeous and has something like 30 or 40 colors). However, I don't know if they can make a sweater to the specific contours of your body, or if they can do a slim fit. If you want a slim fit, you might have to try a designer, a few of them do slim fit cashmeres every season although you can't dictate colorways. Ballantyne's shop on Bond St in London offered so-called bespoke cashmeres which allowed you to choose argyle patterns and colors, but again I think it was more of a stock special type thing. John Smedley also offers a custom option, but I'm not sure how personal it is. Otherwise, Henry Poole and a few other places will sell cashmere sweaters to order, or you could try contacting William Lockie or such places directly.

Thank you all for the great information.

Maybe one of these days we can put together a London Lounge Limited Edition sweater idea?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

As I understand it, there's a little old lady knitting my sweater by hand in a cottage on some windswept rock in the Shetland Islands. (This image really appeals to me.) It's a pattern worn by Edward POW, that you've probably seen. However, since I do not care much for the brown in his sweater, she's knitting mine in greys and blues.

My contact was by email only, and I haven't received the finished product yet.

I'll keep you posted.

This reminds me. Harrod's has a great RTW cashmere cardigan from Ballantyne that I really want.

http://www.harrods.com/HarrodsStore/fin ... 0001329241

Your thoughts, Gentlemen?

Carl:

Although a 6-ply cashmere cardigan is luxurious, that muley old grey color and L1300 price tag leave a lot to be desired. Before hotfooting it over to Harrods, explore some knit shops and talk to a few of the women sitting round the table busy knitting. Ask what they would charge to make a comparable cardigan for you. Much less, I suspect, and it will be bespoke. And for heavens sake! pick a livelier color than that dead-for-days grey thing.

JMB

Excellent suggestions, all.

The color I meant to show was navy.

You could try Johnston's of Elgin - http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/.

Jordan Marc wrote:Carl:

Although a 6-ply cashmere cardigan is luxurious, that muley old grey color and L1300 price tag leave a lot to be desired. Before hotfooting it over to Harrods, explore some knit shops and talk to a few of the women sitting round the table busy knitting. Ask what they would charge to make a comparable cardigan for you. Much less, I suspect, and it will be bespoke. And for heavens sake! pick a livelier color than that dead-for-days grey thing.

JMB

Harrods also had them in navy and in camel. That said, the price is asotundingly high.

Six-ply cashmere is very, very nice. Its look and feel are incomparable and (I'm told, for I've never had anything made of six-ply) clothing made from it wears well and doesn't pill. So a premium in pricing should be justifiable (though at what limit, I couldn't say).