The London Lounge

What advice would you have for dressing a very obese client?

Jackie Gleason in "The Hustler"




and in publicity stills

Well, there is not much philosophy in that! Aside Jackie Gleason, look at Edward the VII - the first PoW, or Orson Wells, in his later years - you can achieve style without having the body. From my experience you need two things - first is to accept yourself and not to try to hide your body shape like an infirmity, and second to find a good tailor, because RTW will never fit! Avoid things baggy, insist on vertical views (more crooked than clean cuts, higher button stance, maybe pinstripes) that will elongate your figure, higher rise in pants, etc. Wear it with confidence and majesty (sic)! In fact, before the "sports-mania" a gentleman "bien en sa chair" was not considered as "gravitationally challenged", and "panache" is not forbidden.
Good luck!

Or indeed, "bien dans sa chaise" works equally well (with due apologies). The worst are those who insist on seating the trousers below their stomachs, particularly if the shirt pulls even a little at the buttons; the trousers should cover as much as possible, and be held high with braces, which rise in utility as the inwards pronouncement of the waist drops.

NCW wrote:Or indeed, "bien dans sa chaise" works equally well (with due apologies). The worst are those who insist on seating the trousers below their stomachs, particularly if the shirt pulls even a little at the buttons; the trousers should cover as much as possible, and be held high with braces, which rise in utility as the inwards pronouncement of the waist drops.

No apologies - realty. Being "tres bien dans ma chaise" I go for higher rises than what is now normal - little bit like the 30 (to make a note, I saw some pants made in the 30 and 40 with an extremely high rise, something like mid torso, but at that time no man would take off his jacket). Trousers are as important as the jacket in terms of balance for those who enjoy too much good food, to quote G.B. Shaw (if I remember well) "I have three pleasures - one is illegal, one is immoral and the third fattens". On the other hand some of the best dressed men I had seen in my life were not aided by stunning looks, but by extremely good tailors and taste. Might be also the fact that fashion - forward (what I call the "deceased was smaller than you suit) garments are not made for the fuller gentlemen, so you are bound to more classical looks, RTW clothes don't fit you, so you go custom, so when you pay a good sum of money for your suits, you will go with matching (in quality) accessories - shirts, ties, shoes. And you try to compensate, also!

Sorry; I was making the rather poor pun on 'chair' (flesh) and 'chaise' (chair). Fashion should only be set (if at all) younger men; it is depressing to see those whom age has matured still thinking in those terms...

No offense taken, I will be the last person to deny that I am "well seated". As for the fashion industry, I am appalled by the fact that the model on which they work is the famished androgynous body frame, for both men and women! Seeing the video of the presentation of Kilgour's next collection (SS 09) it remembered me of Zoolander!
Cheers,
Dan

Though in actual fact the sizes it sells are indeed going up. I am left in trouble now that the credit crunch has pushed size 36s from nearly all shops. I have been totally unable to find anywhere able to sell an ordinary 36 V-neck jumper in any material, which is a real nuisance.

boxcar wrote:What advice would you have for dressing a very obese client?

I addition to the reading of the initial chapters of N. Antongiovanni's well-known book The Suit, I would recommend attentive scrutiny of images of well-dressed men who are by nature lavishly endowed with an extra portion of corporeal substance. Here Mr Soares, a well-known Brazilian writer and actor.








Moreover, I once read that one should avoid leather soles, if one happens to weight over 100kg, for they would wear out to fast in this case.

Moreover, I once read that one should avoid leather soles, if one happens to weight over 100kg, for they would wear out to fast in this case.[/quote]

No, you just need to resole! That is why I buy only shoes that the maker offers a factory rebuild.

marcelo wrote:Moreover, I once read that one should avoid leather soles, if one happens to weight over 100kg, for they would wear out to fast in this case.

No, you just need to resole! That is why I buy only shoes that the maker offers a factory rebuild.[/quote]

koolhistorian wrote:

marcelo wrote:Moreover, I once read that one should avoid leather soles, if one happens to weight over 100kg, for they would wear out to fast in this case.

No, you just need to resole! That is why I buy only shoes that the maker offers a factory rebuild.

No, it does not change the fact that leather soles will wear out faster in this case. Opting for welted shoes, all things being considered, may be a quite reasonable choice. But having one’s shoes refurbished very often may turn out to prove quite expensive. (Most shoe makers charge about 100 – 150 Euros for this). And one cannot have one's shoes endlessly refurbished.

Every thing in life has a price , and with a good rotation and good care you can make it (at least I make it).

The page below stems from J. P. Thornton’s Sectional System of Gentlemen’s Garment Cutting (1893). I remembered this tread when I read this text. I am sorry I was not able to enlarge the image. This book features several sections on "Disproportion".

Speaking as a larger figured gentleman (48" chest / 42" waist / 6' tall), I have to say that yes, one has to wear the suit trouser on the hip to gain any kind of elegance...

In fact, my introduction and reason for discovering bespoke and made to measure was out of the frustration of finding any suits anywhere to fit me in the first place...

I should really post some photos to show you the optical wonders that can be achieved by a good tailor!