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Different type of suit jacket lapels
Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2008 5:28 am
by ay329
For men's lounge/business suits...how many legitimate styles of lapels are there?
Besides Notch and Peak lapels, can members post pictures of other styles of lapels which might be stylish, but can be worn
I've run into the Tautz laple by North & Sons.
How about the Cran Neckar...I'm told the Italians in Paris evolved this...any pictures/info.
Any others?
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:11 pm
by a tailor
there are dozens of variations of the two basic notch and peak lapels.
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:27 pm
by ay329
I showed the Taultz lapel to my Greek tailor and he referred to them as Goat's ears and was delighted to do it for my suit based on the LL Triple Overcheck pattern
What are other varieties...and pictures would be welcome
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:37 pm
by RWS
ay329 wrote:. . . . pictures would be welcome
They would, indeed. I've no idea what "Taultz" or "goat's ear" lapels look like -- at the least, not by those names.
Re: Different type of suit jacket lapels
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:41 pm
by storeynicholas
ay329 wrote:For men's lounge/business suits...how many legitimate styles of lapels are there?
Besides Notch and Peak lapels, can members post pictures of other styles of lapels which might be stylish, but can be worn
I've run into the Tautz laple by North & Sons.
How about the Cran Neckar...I'm told the Italians in Paris evolved this...any pictures/info.
Any others?
The Tautz lapel was designed by E Tautz, a SR firm which is now subsumed in Norton & Sons.
NJS
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:42 pm
by ay329
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:43 pm
by RWS
Thanks, NJS. I have heard of "Tautz" -- but still don't know what the eponymous lapel would look like (yes, I recognize that it may resemble a goat's ear!).
Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 9:45 pm
by RWS
Thanks to you, too, "ay". Not my style, but I'm grateful for the photograph.
Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 10:29 pm
by yachtie
Cran neckar/Cran Parisienne:
here's another Tautz:
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:21 am
by soupcon
The bottom DB is not a Tautz lapel.IIRC, that is a Dege or Poole model with a very short peak.
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:23 am
by a tailor
the sport coat is just a horizontal peak with round points.
the suit coat is a usual horizontal peak.
there many different interpretations of both notch and peak lapels.
some tailors try to attach their name to one version for publicity purposes.
Re: Different type of suit jacket lapels
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:36 am
by pbc
ay329 wrote:For men's lounge/business suits...how many legitimate styles of lapels are there?
Besides Notch and Peak lapels, can members post pictures of other styles of lapels which might be stylish, but can be worn?
I think an M-notch might be possible without looking too daring. Check
this thread on AAAC started by Sator on historical lapels.
The M lapel looks like a possibility if modernized a bit. I also recall Rhett Butler wearing a morning or frock coat with an interesting shawl collar. I can best describe it as a full-bellied shawl lapel, since it joined a collar at the normal place, forming a very obtuse angle, slightly breaking the shawl shape but not really like a notch. The collar end was cut at perhaps10 degrees from vertical, angled out toward the shoulder. Definitely fashion forward for a business suit, but it might be possible.
pbc
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 5:04 am
by a tailor
shows you that an infinite number of shapes are possible.
no one has an exclusive title to a lapel shape.
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 9:57 am
by JDelage
Would a shawl lapel be possible on a business suit (or sport jacket of the dressy-er kind)? I've always liked the look. Not sure what kind of body they'd fit best though.
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 4:45 pm
by RWS
JDelage wrote:Would a shawl lapel be possible on a business suit (or sport jacket of the dressy-er kind)? . . . . Not sure what kind of body they'd fit best though.
I, too, like the shawl collar. I wear it only on my favorite dinner jacket and an inherited dressing gown, but I'd like someday to have a good, thick sweater with the same lapel, and perhaps a smoking jacket (though I don't smoke!). I doubt that I'd ever wear it on a business coat or other work clothes.