The London Lounge

Gentlemen, a bit more advice if you please:

I want to add versatility to my wardrobe. It occurred to me that I might wear suit jackets with odd trousers if I'm careful about it. However I want desperately to avoid the appearance of doing this. I've failed miserably if somebody with a good eyeball looks at me and thinks, "Right, that's part of a suit."

What design details or cloths, if any, would be suitable for mixing in this way?

I was thinking that a plain navy mohair suit jacket with patch pockets might look well with gray or white flannels or tan gabardine.

Or that a soft flannel suit jacket with a small black and charcoal herringbone pattern, angled pockets, and ticket pocket might look well with plain medium gray flannels.

Cheviot Tweed might work well in this vein, but I don't see myself wearing the suit-trousers on any but very cold days.

Could I get away with any of this, or am I teetering at the edge of a precipice?

I see no problem in wearing a 2B SB navy blue suit coat as a blazer with odd trousers. It can even be made of gabardine, rather than shiny mohair, and have no patch pockets.
Beyond that, I would be careful. A dark grey flannel suit coat doesn't take slanted pockets and ticket pockets in my opinion, and a sports jacket that does shouldn't be dark grey or part of a suit.
It is perhaps easier to mix coats and trousers with country and non-business town suits: flannels, tweeds, cavalry twils etc.

Gentlemen:

The following ensemble garnered approval. Nevertheless, one must be careful.

*Vintage tropical weight light gray wool trousers;
*Tropical weight Ralph Lauren light gray pinstripe three button suit jacket (wool/cashmere blend);
*Very light gray Falke socks;
*White tennis point collar Brooks Brothers shirt (no double cuffs);
*Solid Dormeuil amber grenadine tie;
*Brown Allen Edmonds cap top suede shoes.

I met my wife for lunch. She commented, "your pants and jacket don't match." To which I replied, "oh, really." Her reply, "I like it."

Happy thoughts!

Trey

Trey wrote:Gentlemen:

The following ensemble garnered approval. Nevertheless, one must be careful.

*Vintage tropical weight light gray wool trousers;
*Tropical weight Ralph Lauren light gray pinstripe three button suit jacket (wool/cashmere blend);
*Very light gray Falke socks;
*White tennis point collar Brooks Brothers shirt (no double cuffs);
*Solid Dormeuil amber grenadine tie;
*Brown Allen Edmonds cap top suede shoes.

I met my wife for lunch. She commented, "your pants and jacket don't match." To which I replied, "oh, really." Her reply, "I like it."

Happy thoughts!

Trey

A good dose of nonchalance will always see one through!

Gentlemen, thank you.

I'm trying to formulate some rules of thumb for myself. How about the following?

1. Look for suiting cloths that would seem appropriate as an odd jacket also. These would be subtle patterns, checks and tweeds, or something plain and somewhat informal. Avoid anything too loud, suggesting a horse-blanket if made up into a suit, or anything strongly suggesting business wear if worn as a jacket.

2. The suit jacket could also have some details that might not be strictly proper for serious business wear--say slanted pockets, ticket pockets, patch pockets, etc.

3. Accept the fact that the result will not be something you'd wear to an important meeting.

or,

4. Wear what you please and devil take rules 1, 2, and 3.

Please let me know if you think this works.

From my reading of the LL, the advice seems to be (and I have learned this here and raise my hat to those who taught it): know the old rules; do not be a slave to the old rules and use your taste, common sense and seek guidance if you wish, to dress, tastefully, as you please. The Devil is given his dues only when we break the old rules, tastelessly - and look a mess as a result. All that I would add is to consider the company that you are to keep. In other words try to avoid standing out like a sore thumb.
NJS [/i]

Sorry but I don't feel comfortable with this idea at all.
Whenever I see a man who has attempted this it just gives the impression that he's either got dressed in the dark and mismatched by mistake or he realised when he woke up that his suit trousers were torn and didn't have another complete suit.

Usually I see these mismatched ensembles on men who have bought from charity shops and couldn't find a proper suit that fits.
That's my experience anyway.

I have had my tailor make a few pairs of non-matching trousers to wear with my charcoal grey lounge suit coats. They are mostly cashmere striped and if not, some sort of traditional formal check.

The results:



H Lesser have a particularly good selection of cashmere stripe trousering:



The end result is that I can bespeak as many spare trousers for my suits as I wish - whenever I wish.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Oh, yes, I should add that I would only ever consider doing this with a lounge suit or, if I owned one a morning suit or a frock coat suit (!). It is not something that is done with any sort of suit. I would look like a butler if I did it with a dress suit.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Sator wrote:I have had my tailor make a few pairs of non-matching trousers to wear with my charcoal grey lounge suit coats...H Lesser have a particularly good selection of cashmere stripe trousering [followed by photographs of very nice looking 13oz cloth]...

Very nice looking combination, Sator!

However...um...ah...isn't that cloth (13oz) a bit...light?

Ta!
garu

Of course, you can try to convince about 20+ people that we should Mr Alden to get someone to weave us some 20 Oz cashmere stripe trousering However, with LL Cloth Club trousering it is difficult to get enough interested parties together, as each person takes only about 1.5m. I may yet get a shepherd's check made up for myself in an 18/19 Oz or so Shetland weave, of which there is a fair minimum order. Anyone interested in taking part in this should let me know.

This is what a Shepherd's check looks like in case you are wondering:



In the meantime, if you can find any heavier formal trousering (cashmere striped, herringbone, Shetland or similar) already available from any merchant tell me about it. Otherwise, alas, that's as heavy it as it gets. Fortunately, the examples from Lesser are stoutly woven twill weaves that are less flimsy than a 13 Oz usually feels.

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Sator wrote:

Is that not the Prince de Sagan, by the photographer Paul Nadar, taken on 28th July 1883?
NJS

Well spotted, NJS

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

Sator,
I have been seeking a shepherd's check pattern for quite some time now, but to no avail. All different cloth books and swatches at various MTM stores and bespoke tailors have left me underwhelmed. You and I have discussed formal trousers before, so I think our interests parallel each other; anything you wish to commission in this regard has my support.

Sator wrote:. . . . I may yet get a shepherd's check made up for myself in an 18/19 Oz or so Shetland weave, of which there is a fair minimum order. Anyone interested in taking part in this should let me know. . . .

Depending upon cost and final appearance (I prefer a darker overall tone), I may be interested in two trouser lengths, probably about 3.5 meters for my long legs.