Adolphe Menjou's Tailors

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Mark Seitelman
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Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:31 am

Adophe Menjou notes the following tailors that he has used in his autobiography, It Took Nine Tailors (1948):

1. Eddie Schmidt and later his son in Los Angeles. Schmidt was Menjou's primary tailor, and he copied clothes that Menjou brought back from England and Europe. He thought that Schmidt as as good as any of the English and European tailors.

2. Sholte.

3. Anderson and Sheppard.

4. Pope and Bradley.

5. Leslie and Roberts.

6. Plaidell and Smith.

7. Birkenshaw and Knights.

8. Henry Poole.

9. Sandon, makers of breeches and riding clothes.

10. Caraceni.

11. Caraterro in Madird.

12. Kinize of Berlin.

13. Larson and Pile of Paris.
marcelo
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Tue Sep 23, 2008 3:11 am

Dear Mark Seitelman
This is an interesting piece of information, for which we are truly grateful. Are there by any chance, in the mentioned book, pictures of the Nine Tailor Gentleman wearing some of the garments produced by those artisans?
Mark Seitelman
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Tue Sep 23, 2008 1:12 pm

marcelo wrote:Dear Mark Seitelman
This is an interesting piece of information, for which we are truly grateful. Are there by any chance, in the mentioned book, pictures of the Nine Tailor Gentleman wearing some of the garments produced by those artisans?

The book has some photos, but there is no identification of the tailors.

Menjou had definite ideas of how he wanted his clothes made, and he gave directions to his tailors. He directed Schmidt in making copies. Therefore, Menjou's clothes had a pretty consistent look.
storeynicholas

Tue Sep 23, 2008 2:11 pm

Quite an astonishing variety and I agree that this is most interesting.
NJS
Cufflink79
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Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:45 pm

Dear Mark:

First of all thank you for the neat list.

Also in Alan Flusser's 2nd book "Clothes and the Man" there is a great shot of Menjou standing next to his shoe wardrobe. Does anyone know where that original photo came from and if there are anymore photos of the rest of what appears to be a great closet?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
marcelo
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Tue Sep 23, 2008 10:11 pm

There is a further photo of Adolphe Menjou in Alan Flusser’s book, but it is not as impressive as the one which shows him standing before his vast collection of shoes.

Image

Does any one guess who made this DB? I do not have the answer.
Frog in Suit
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 11:07 am

marcelo wrote:There is a further photo of Adolphe Menjou in Alan Flusser’s book, but it is not as impressive as the one which shows him standing before his vast collection of shoes.

Image

Does any one guess who made this DB? I do not have the answer.
I cannot answer your question but would draw everyone' s attention to the fact that he fastens all working buttons :P .

Frog in Suit
NCW
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 11:55 am

Cufflink79 wrote:Dear Mark:

First of all thank you for the neat list.

Also in Alan Flusser's 2nd book "Clothes and the Man" there is a great shot of Menjou standing next to his shoe wardrobe. Does anyone know where that original photo came from and if there are anymore photos of the rest of what appears to be a great closet?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
I like that photo too, and mentioned it in a post last week. The picture comes from the archives of Culver Pictures, but you would probably have to ask them if you wanted to find out more.
marcelo
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:26 pm

NCW wrote:
Cufflink79 wrote:Dear Mark:

First of all thank you for the neat list.

Also in Alan Flusser's 2nd book "Clothes and the Man" there is a great shot of Menjou standing next to his shoe wardrobe. Does anyone know where that original photo came from and if there are anymore photos of the rest of what appears to be a great closet?

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
I like that photo too, and mentioned it in a post last week. The picture comes from the archives of Culver Pictures, but you would probably have to ask them if you wanted to find out more.

I have probably failed to notice your mentioning this photo from Flusser’s book. In the absence of further pictures of Menjou, it would be interesting if we captioned some images from his films. He probably wore garments made by some of his nine tailors in his films, for at that time, as it has been often mentioned in the LL, actors used to wear their own cloths in their films.
Mark Seitelman
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 1:58 pm

marcelo wrote:

Image

Does any one guess who made this DB? I do not have the answer.
We have no way of knowing who made the suit.

I do not think that one could discern one tailor versus another when looking at Menjou. Essentially, Menjou looked like Menjou regardless of the tailor.

This photo shows typical Menjou style, such as a tight fitting coat, white pocket square (usually more prominent), and full trousers.
Cufflink79
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 3:56 pm

marcelo wrote:
Image


Even with the photo blown up, it is pretty hard to tell if he has cuffs on his trousers.

Can anybody make that out?

If there are cuffs on the trousers, they're quite big. :)

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Costi
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:48 pm

They were the first thing I noticed, after my eyes adjusted to the stripes :wink: Yes, I am pretty sure those are cuffs - and probably in excess of 2 inches.
marcelo
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:20 pm

Frog in Suit wrote:I cannot answer your question but would draw everyone' s attention to the fact that he fastens all working buttons :P .

Frog in Suit
His hose has cuff, by all means! As for the fastening of all working buttons in a DB, should we expect one to leave the bottom button undone? As for the jacket sleeves, could they not be a little shorter?
Frog in Suit
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Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:35 pm

marcelo wrote: As for the fastening of all working buttons in a DB, should we expect one to leave the bottom button undone?
It is my firm opinion thet one should not, but there are some (ahem!) even in this forum :shock: , who have been known to disagree....

Frog in Suit
storeynicholas

Wed Sep 24, 2008 5:57 pm

Frog in Suit wrote:
marcelo wrote: As for the fastening of all working buttons in a DB, should we expect one to leave the bottom button undone?
It is my firm opinion thet one should not, but there are some (ahem!) even in this forum :shock: , who have been known to disagree....

Frog in Suit
Ahem! Looking at the Duke of Windsor in various pictures, through his life (www.gettyimmages.com) it seems that he frequently did up the lower button and left the top one undone; sometimes he had display buttons and, sometimes, not. On a DB DJ I noticed in one image that one button was to do up and the only other was for display. A cutter once mentioned that he thought it best to do up the top and leave the bottom button undone; however, by Jove, here there might reasonably be room for difference of practice without too much bad blood :P I think that if AM had left either button undone then, because of his choice of tight fit, the coat would have splayed open. As for the turnups/cuffs - they do look deep but the trousers are so full that less deep might have looked skimped.
NJS
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