The London Lounge

Unsure as to the idea of entrusting a local cordwainer with the task of refurbishing my welted shoes, I have been trying to figure out what I will do when times comes to change the leather sole. Sending the shoes abroad seems to be the only workable alternative, even considering that the postage may turn out to cost as much as the refurbishment itself. For the time being, I think I have to try and postpone this operation as long as possible. This is the reason I have been considering the idea of recurring to those shoe metal protectors, as seen in the picture below. - I do not know if these metal proterctors have any technical name.



I would be glad to have the opinion of fellow Loungers as far as this matter is concerned. Do you regard the the application of these metal protectors as aesthetically condemnable? Does it endanger the structure of the shoes as a whole? I have heard of shoe makers who will not accept shoes of their own fabrication for refurbishment if these small pieces of metal have been applied.

Alternatively, in the attempt to make leather soles last longer, I have been applying leather oil every now an then, like the ones from the brands depicted bellow.




Does any one prefer seal fat instead? I have read about this product, but have not had any experience with it as yet:



I would appreciate your comments on this topic.

American cobblers call the metal toe-protectors, "taps" or "toe-taps". I used them (and rubber taps) long, long ago; I won't again, at least not willingly: the slickness of the metal against a smooth marble surface (which the metal, usually a soft or "sweet" steel, will damage) results in slips, near-falls, and absolute contortions. Seal (or any other) oil on the soles will do the same, especially in wet weather.

The best means of extending the life of the sole that I've found is application of rubber "topies" to a fresh leather sole: the rubber grips yet wears very well. (My stepfather still has a cobbler take the leather soles off his new shoes and replace it with neoprene ones, but that seems a bit extreme to me.)

RWS, thanks for your comments! I usually wait one or two days in order to wear a pair of shoes which have been treated with sole oil. I do not have the least impression they are more slippery than they would be without the oil. I think this happens because the oil is immediately absorbed by the leather. How do the so-called rubber "topies" adhere to the brand new sole? Do you still employ them?

I got my first pair with taps this year. So far, no accidents. I expect that they will, however, prevent a lot of the wear and scuffing that afflicts the outer edge of the toe.

Every pair of shoes I own have the fer encastre shown in the picture above. These are not taps by any means. These iron pieces are inset into the sole itself. A part of the leather sole is removed to fit the iron piece that is attached with brass screws; brass because these avoid rust. Virtually all the top rated cobblers of Paris use this technique. These pieces should however be installed when the shoe is relatively new and the sole is easy to work.

Stay away from any Topy styled articles. And if you do use them and they ruin your shoes, do not complain to the manufacturer or expect redress from same!

Oiling soles will have zero effect on their longevity. Just make sure and let them dry out well if wet and rotate your shoes.

Cheers

I differ to the broader knowledge of our founder.

I'll clarify only to say that, in my own experience (do I step downward toe first? perhaps), soft-steel taps at the toe (and, worse, similar at the heel) have been all but life-threatening. I work as a lawyer and have many an occasion to tread the highly-polished stone floors of courthouse and government building: metal slips, and I did with it -- more than once. As for topies: I've used them for several years now (reluctantly, at first, preferring the naked leather; but too many wet, cold winters here forced me to choose between the topy and a synthetic sole) and found them to afford me a good grip even on slick surfaces, to retard wear upon the sole (the synthetic rubber used is tough), and not to have any noticeable ill effect upon the shoe itself.

It may all be a matter of individual choice, or (I admit) of idiosyncrasy.

marcelo wrote:. . . . How do the so-called rubber "topies" adhere to the brand new sole? . . . .

With a species of rubber cement, I think. The seal appears firm and not subject to dissolution by water, but (my aged cobbler tells me) is reversible with some sort of solvent (which might -- I don't know -- damage the leather).

RWS,

The American styled taps that are attached to outside of the sole by nails, and not set into the sole like the French version pictured above, are lethal indeed. And iron pieces at the heel should be outlawed, they are slippery as well.

Your topy plastered shoes are suffocating underneath what seems to be a perfectly occlusive seal. Leather needs to breathe. And some water DOES make it underneath the topy and it will be trapped there and will not dry properly. The result is rotten, rotten leather soles. Once again these should never be glued onto expensive, or bespoke shoes. If you have to apply them to a pair of winter trashers, that is another question.

Cheers

Michael

Dear Mr Alden, thanks for your message.
The oil supposedly preserves the resilience of the leather preventing it from wearing out too fast. I read about this in Alles über Herrenschuhe, by H. Sternke a quite comprehensive publication on gentlemen’s shoes. But it is interesting to know that, perhaps, oiling may not be effective at all. The picture I have posted above stems from Jean-Jacques Ficat’s L’Art de se bien chausser, and I think it shows the fer encastre with screws, though the picture is not so sharp. If I correctly understood your explanation, the correct application of these metal protectors are a little more complicated than I had thought, because a section of the leather, bearing the same form and size of the fer encastre, must be previously removed. Some shoe makers – I think Heinrich Dinkelacker amongst them – offer some of their shoes with metal protectors fixed with messing screws.





With yout French designation for the metal protector at issue here I was able to find an interesting link:

http://www.net.esa-paris.fr/~alexis_bon ... stres.html

I would like to use this opportunity to express how much I appreciate the London Lounge. It has been a splendid opportunity to learn a lot about apparel arts and kindred themes. Thanks.

RWS wrote:

marcelo wrote:. . . . How do the so-called rubber "topies" adhere to the brand new sole? . . . .

With a species of rubber cement, I think. The seal appears firm and not subject to dissolution by water, but (my aged cobbler tells me) is reversible with some sort of solvent (which might -- I don't know -- damage the leather).

Dear RWS, thank for you explanation. I had not ever heard about this treatment of leather sole. Thanks once more for you message.

This link should help make things clear

http://www.alainmadec.com/?p=fer-semelle

I am very happy to know you find the LL useful.

Cheers

MIchael

Does anyone know if there are any shoemakers or cobblers in NY who do this?

Cordovan