Two clothing history books, out of print and forthcoming

[couch]

NJS and Marcelo have teased us with citations and pictures from Farid Chenoune's "A History of Men's Fashion." I was delighted to discover a copy here in Penn's library, and it is indeed a rich source, with a unique cross-Channel point of view. Finding a second-hand copy for less than US $250 will be a challenge.

But I'm not sure that all of our members know of NJS's forthcoming tome of the same title, subtitled "What the Well-Dressed Man is Wearing." Amazon UK lists the publication date as October 16, but will accept pre-orders now.

I'm sure, given NJS's lively style here in the Lounge, that this book will be a pleasure to read. The current Amazon listing, however, does not give a description of the contents. Without straining the non-commercial terms of the Lounge, I hope the moderators will permit me to ask NJS to give us a brief summary of the book's approach, scope, and emphases. Illustrations?

If this topic has been covered before and I've just missed it, please accept my apologies.

[pvpatty]

I too found this little tidbit on Amazon a few weeks ago. I will be interested to see what our colleague has to say.

[marcelo]

Farid Chenoune’s book is lavishly illustrated and very well written, but, indeed, practically unaffordable. As for NJS’s own book, I can hardly wait to read, and re-read it. Yet, since I learnt about the still unpublished volume, I had imposed upon myself a duty to maintain confidentiality about the matter, lest the author might prefer to present it himself. I have, indeed, posted every now and then excerpts from interesting books in order to share knowledge, or rather, my own doubts and questions, with fellow Loungers. But, actually, I haven’t posted anything from Chenoune’s book thus far, since it has been confiscated by... you know whom.

[Costi]

Without straining the non-commercial terms of the Lounge, I hope the moderators will permit me to ask NJS to give us a brief summary of the book's approach, scope, and emphases.

Not even a review of a Shakespeare play is entirely uncommercial, since the author of the review should reveal his sources including publishing house, year and possibly ISBN; someone interested in the subject might therefore purchase THAT edition and not another, for its crytical notes for instance. But how else could we ever afford the pleasure of a presentation by the contemporary author of a book?
I recall reading in a small history book on inter-war Bucharest when hundreds of visiting cards were left at the door of the aristocratic residences of the city shortly before the ball season began. Of course, only those who had demonstrated a genuine, consistent and lasting interest in befriending the hosts received invitations. NJS (I deliberately used the signature as I am sure you will find it so familiar) has for long enough been a very active member of the Lounge and, with the precedent of fellow lounger Manton's book in mind, I would consider it an honour if he agreed to tell fellow loungers a bit about the story of an effort that is perfectly in line with LL's mission as stated on its front page.

[storeynicholas]

Thank you all for this interest. I mentioned the book when I joined the LL and once or twice early on. Apart from that, a few members have found references to it on the internet and pm'd me, including one who is a reviewer for a well-known magazine. I can hardly deny that the book exists and I am grateful for the kind remarks above, inviting me to say something. The book probably began to formulate when I was about 4 as that is when I started to have an interest in clothes; thanks in some large part to my paternal grandfather who, without being in the least fussy, was always outstandingly well- dressed. Then there was the influence of the early Bond films and old films generally and the old stars from Valentino to Jack Buchanan, George Sanders, Robert Cummings, Ray Milland, Clive Brook as well as the obvious ones - and, besides that, history and biography (from Brummell to Churchill) have always been great interests.

I actually delivered the script to the publisher in August 2007 but, to make it affordable, it had to be somewhat cut, - although there are still about 75 illustrations: a selection of: archive photographs, Spy cartoons, a photograph from the Met Museum in New York, one from Artemis Cooper of Duff Cooper and photographs of modern bespoke and some RTW clothes. Many illustrations were monochrome anyway but whether some colour pictures - such as the Spy cartoons will be in colour inside, I do not know. There are about 4 photographs which are the from the publisher's own choice and over those and the main title the publisher had the only say. It was never a comprehensive history, as Farid Chenoune's book is, from the 18th C down to the present; although there are historical references and some little asides - not just social commentary (!) - indeed very little of that! - just a little bit - but mainly additional information about certain things - such as the strength of the dragline silk of the Golden Orb Weaving Spider and the invention of Nelson's green eyeshade built into his hats and about the collection of his very last hat before the Battle of Trafalgar. Mainly, though, it is intended to be a distillation of my understanding of the components of a good modern wardrobe and it concentrates on London, where the owners and senior staff of some really great firms have given me information, their views, advice and many pictures and allowed others to be taken. The book also gives some suggestions of complete outfits for certain occasions, from weddings - to watching rugby at Twickenham - to going to Henley Regatta - and even going to church in town and in the country. I hope that it informs and that it also entertains. It comprises an introduction and12 chapters: Haberdashery; General Day Wear (1) Suits and Coats and (2) Shoes; Morning Dress (in several variations); Evening Dress (White Tie and Black Tie); Domestic Leisure and Casual Wear; Country and Sporting Dress; Hats; Second-hand and Provincial Shops; Some Accessories; Some Named Events and Activities and Care of Clothing. There are also: an index, bibliography, directory of businesses and Acknowledgements for illustrations and help.

The book actually came about because I was at home and in the middle of writing something quite different, as work, when I decided to divert myself with a list. Some people make lists and some do not. Those who do make lists will know how important they are: even though we list-makers know that seldom is all of any list ever completely realized. But at least we have the list. This list was about renewal of my wardrobe. My wife came in and volunteered her views on the usefulness of this particular list in comparison with what I should have been doing - but, as she left the room, she said - and I still don't know how serious she was : "Why don't you make it into a book?" And that is when it really began. I sent a very rough draft to the agent Andrew Lownie and, to my immense surprise, he called, full of enthusiasm, and said that he would like to represent me. Not very long after that, Pen & Sword Books made an offer and I accepted it. And there we are!
NJS

[pvpatty]

So can we get signed copies?

[storeynicholas]

So can we get signed copies?

They had me sign some labels for a certain number of books but I don't know their practice on this.
NJS

[Sator]

I certainly look forward to getting my hands on your new book, NJS. It sounds very promising.

[storeynicholas]

Sator - thank you for this.
NJS

[marcelo]

It will be such a privilege to be able to discuss this book with its author within the walls of the LL. In addition to Costi’s wise words, it occurred to me the following: re-reading the LL’s mission, as it is stated in the log-in page, it becomes apparent that, irrespective of precedents, such a discussion could not embody in a more appropriate way this ideal: “Each member will use his energy, skill and education to render comprehensible the virtues of true elegance and good taste to those who seek advice and counsel.”

[Costi]

Thank you, NIcholas, for the this humorous and informative preface.
Thank you, Marcelo, for reproducing the very passage to which I referred when I wrote that this thread was in line with LL's mission.

[Bishop of Briggs]

So can we get signed copies?

Discounts too?

[storeynicholas]

So can we get signed copies?

Discounts too?

I believe that they are advertised.
NJS

[couch]

Thank you, NJS, for this glimpse of the book and its making, and you, Costi, for green-lighting the project, as the movie people say. Your book sounds like a unique and valuable addition to the shelf on the subject, and I will look forward to receiving my copy.

I note that you have prudently, after having been admitted to the London sanctuaries and their secrets, put an ocean between yourself and them prior to publishing your findings

One day--and that day may never come--I will ask of you a favor. At a retrocentric rendezvous, I will proffer my copy and and a pen, and ask you to sign it. For the family.

Cheers!

[Bishop of Briggs]

Thank you, NJS, for this glimpse of the book and its making, and you, Costi, for green-lighting the project, as the movie people say. Your book sounds like a unique and valuable addition to the shelf on the subject, and I will look forward to receiving my copy.

I note that you have prudently, after having been admitted to the London sanctuaries and their secrets, put an ocean between yourself and them prior to publishing your findings

One day--and that day may never come--I will ask of you a favor. At a retrocentric rendezvous, I will proffer my copy and and a pen, and ask you to sign it. For the family.

Cheers!

At least he did not invent an Italian sounding psueudonym , e.g. Nicholas Sartoriani.