The London Lounge

I was wondering what the members views were on this.

I have a grey chalk stripe DB suit (not bespoke I will admit) but of good quality which was given to me, and that I would love to have a waistcoat for. I have tried to match the cloth but it is a near impossible task. I thought of something contrasting like a burgundy in a similar weight of cloth.

What is the general feeling? I am still very much the novice at the sartorial arts!

Another possibility would be to go with the colour of the stripe in the suit.
NJS

The suggestion of matching the colour of the stripes is a good one.

With contrasting waistcoats there are a number of colours that are traditional and which work splendidly even today if you got your tailor to make them up. These include cream (linen for summer and flannel for winter), buff (linen), dove grey, and an understated lavender. Dove grey is more strongly associated with morning dress but the others work well with a lounge coat.

The Minnis books have some linen examples that are excellent. As for other recommended cloths, I am quite liberal with waistcoating, and am quite happy to choose cloths that I would regard as utterly anathema otherwise. I even recently ordered an H&S S150's dove grey as waistcoating (:shock:). Light cloths add less bulk and if the design is good I am happy to go with that. I regard the use of expensive and delicate fibres to be akin to the way they used to wear fine imported fancy silk waistcoats in the Victorian era.

As London temperatures drop (today was the very first cold day of the season), I find myself postponing the wearing of my heaviest suits. I like the feeling of saving these 'silver bullets' to kill the really cold days of Winter. During the past few weeks I've been using heavier waistcoats together with less heavy suits that are approaching the end of their seasonal service.

I particularly enjoy wearing a double breasted 5x10 waistcoat in worsted cloth; Dad would call the colour fumo di Londra. I still have to find the suit that doesn't go well with this. This waistcoat is a true favourite of less-young ladies in their 60s and 70s, when they sit in front of me in the tube (that's the only time you can tell it's a DB); they often find the words for a little compliment. All my bespoke orders include a matching waistcoat as I really like the 3-piece look, but I am starting to enjoy the look of the contrasting waistcoat as well, which makes me swap things around every now and then to mismatch my 3-piece suits. It's useful, fun and practical (in allowing new combinations).

Speaking of contrast, I find the one of DB waistcoat worn with SB coat (even when the cloth is the same) just perfect. I don't think DB waistcoats are any more 'extravagant' than SB 'lapelled' waistcoats.

One or two well-selected contrasting waistcoats would probably be a great addition to the wardrobe of serial 2piece-suit wearers. Anyone else enjoying this garment?

Dear Federico,

excellent observations, thank you. Playing with waistcoats, matching and non-matching, including sleeveless slip-overs and cardigans has become my favourite spiel. This allows me extending the wearability of some lighter suits by 2-3 months per year, leaving the overcoat at home when travelling, adjusting to room temperature more easily etc. It is also an easy way to tone down or add some colour to a serious suit, or tune it up if desired. The only thing I'm wondering about is why are not more men doing this?

Cheers, David

The best guideline for odd vests, judging by the examples I've seen in photos and illustrations of yore, is to use a lighter vest under darker jackets or suits. While I cannot really how this habit was born, it has simply been the thing to do. Perhaps it works to lighten an otherwise dark or dour whole, quite like white or pale blue shirts do under suits. A pale grey, buff, beige or cream vest in linen for summer, flannel for winter, can do no harm to any man. If you're feeling adventurous, follow the gist of Ralph Lauren's Purple Label and go for...purple vests.

More generally, the use of wasitcoats has risen exponentially, I would say, at least in London.
In 2000 a waistcoat - any waistcoat - was outright eccentric. I currently see many men wearing classic 3-piece suits and among the better dressed, frequently 'odd' waistcoats. Recently, I have also seen a few DB waistcoats outside of the tailoring blogs and in the "real world". They particularly suit trimmer chaps (especially the type with no "points" at the bottom).

As a matter of fact i wore a dark blue-grey, lapelled, SB waistcoat today with a a dark brown tweed suit.
I agree with Leighton that it can work very well visually and with all the posters that it's a way to wear coats/trousers that are not too hot indoors while avoiding being too cold outdoors. I would add that a man wearing a tie and waistcoat looks quite business-like even without his jacket on.

Generally, wearing an additional layer under a suit or sports coat both looks good and is also practical in the cold.

That's why men who enjoy their clothes welcome Fall/Winter; more opportunity to wear warm clothing, creatively.

I would include pullovers, sweater vests, etc.; one of the most stylish items a man can wear is a one ply sweater under a sports coat. So simple and low cost. Also a chance to add some bright color to an outfit, particularly welcome in the stark winter months.

'A Lounger at the Clubs' (1876) wrote:Take my advice, and have four pockets in every waistcoat. The upper side-pockets come in very handy: one for a few loose sovereigns--the other for railway ticket or latch key.--Apropos of this, pardon a parenthesis. Some persons mix up gold and silver promiscuously in their purses; others carry silver only in pockets--gold and bank-notes in their purse. The best plan is to carry notes only in your purse. When you change a fiver, transfer the sovereigns to side upper vest-pocket above mentioned; and when you change gold into silver, carry the latter in right-hand lower waistcoat-pocket--watch in left ditto. The advantages claimed for this system of banking are that your money is never mixed. You cannot drop a bank-note in taking out gold, not in the dusk give a sovereign for a shilling to a confiding cabby.

Victorian waistcoat with weeping wheat pattern (mourning waistcoat, worn for years...).
Victorian waistcoat with thistle pattern (thistle was a symbol of nobility).

Frederic Leighton wrote: Victorian waistcoat with weeping wheat pattern (mourning waistcoat, worn for years...).

Perhaps, weeping willow.