NJS's thread on sleeve cuffs makes me wonder about other things we might elect to get on our bespoke suits, namely ticket pockets, slanted pockets, rear vents, waistcoat lapels, trouser pockets, turnups. I cannot think of anything else at the moment.
Anything you always get?
Anything you would never get?
A partial answer, to get the ball rolling:
Ticket pockets: almost always, on SB suit coats only, never on DB or separate jackets (tweed, blazer). I have only two lounge suits without them: on is a "city" SB 3-piece in a dark navy with pinhead stripes: I feel it is too formal for a ticket pocket. The other one is a fairly busy tweed (similar to this J.G. Hardy Allsport: http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardy ... =518123340?) with slanted pockets (a mistake in hindsight) and a ticket pocket would be too much.
Slanted pockets: Only on the tweed suit mentioned above and on one Donegal tweed jacket. I just do not like them much and certainly not on city suits.
Rear vents: two on everything except tweed jackets (one only), and DJ.
Would anyone care to weigh in?
Frog in Suit
Sartorial "quirks"
Not sure if it counts as a quirk but I am now decided that I will have a waistcoat with all SB suits from now on. This was one of the reasons I moved to bespoke as there are so few RTW in three piece these days.
I must say I rather like lapels on waistcoats.
To my mind it is a shame that the waistcoat went out of fashion, it is in item of cloathing that (proberly fitted) enhances just about any body type. Even Horace Rumpole suited a waistcoat!
What do people thing about the fob watch and chain on a waistcoat? An affectation or the finishing touch?
I must say I rather like lapels on waistcoats.
To my mind it is a shame that the waistcoat went out of fashion, it is in item of cloathing that (proberly fitted) enhances just about any body type. Even Horace Rumpole suited a waistcoat!
What do people thing about the fob watch and chain on a waistcoat? An affectation or the finishing touch?
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Frog in Suit
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If I had a pocket watch, I would certainly wear it on my waistcoats, with a chain of course. Alas I do not have one.
Frog in Suit
Frog in Suit
Actually I started the thread on sleeve cuffs but I won't take it personally. It was an easy mistake to make as NJS starts almost everything else.Frog in Suit wrote:NJS's thread on sleeve cuffs makes me wonder about other things we might elect to get on our bespoke suits, namely ticket pockets, slanted pockets, rear vents, waistcoat lapels, trouser pockets, turnups. I cannot think of anything else at the moment.
Anything you always get?
Anything you would never get?
A partial answer, to get the ball rolling:
Ticket pockets: almost always, on SB suit coats only, never on DB or separate jackets (tweed, blazer). I have only two lounge suits without them: on is a "city" SB 3-piece in a dark navy with pinhead stripes: I feel it is too formal for a ticket pocket. The other one is a fairly busy tweed (similar to this J.G. Hardy Allsport: http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardy ... =518123340?) with slanted pockets (a mistake in hindsight) and a ticket pocket would be too much.
Slanted pockets: Only on the tweed suit mentioned above and on one Donegal tweed jacket. I just do not like them much and certainly not on city suits.
Rear vents: two on everything except tweed jackets (one only), and DJ.
Would anyone care to weigh in?
Frog in Suit
I like a ticket pocket on my SB suits. I also have a number of business suits with slanted pockets. That may make one or two loungers foam at the mouth but I think it flatters the figure somewhat, and mine needs flattering!
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Frog in Suit
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I apologize for my mistake. I should take the time to read more carefully, and I shall not foam at the mouthScot wrote:
Actually I started the thread on sleeve cuffs but I won't take it personally. It was an easy mistake to make as NJS starts almost everything else.
I like a ticket pocket on my SB suits. I also have a number of business suits with slanted pockets. That may make one or two loungers foam at the mouth but I think it flatters the figure somewhat, and mine needs flattering!
.I would suggest that bespoke wearers enjoy the tension between wearing unobjectionably correct clothes (conformity) and the desire to branch out and affirm one's difference ("I wear bespoke"), hence the search for small but tasteful details. So much the better if they improve on our physique.
Frog in Suit
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storeynicholas
Just woken up to find all these new posts. On my bespoke suits: I have 3 piece DB town suits (plain SB vests) and 3 piece SB country and travelling suits (all just have plain SB vests). I used to have some SB 3 piece town suits with DB vests. Most coats have ticket pockets. All coat pockets are slanted besoms with flaps. All coats and trousers have cuffs, except the formal wear (as explained in the other thread). I always have a fob pocket in the waistband of the trousers and one back left trouser pocket with a button. All the trousers have 2X2 pleats, even the formal ones. The DBs (and a DB DJ) have no vents and the SBs have 1. I have a very heavy merino and cashmere mix black DB top coat with slanting pockets (including a ticket pocket), cloth cuffs and an astrakhan collar and lapels and 1 vent - the wweight makes cloakroom attendants grimace humorously when they haul it about. Not really quirks - just specifications, which I arrived at with much good advice as to what was acceptable and what would be quirky . And it makes it easier not to chop and change too much.
NJS
NJS
NJS,
Do your trousers have forward or reverse pleats?
Do your trousers have forward or reverse pleats?
Most of my suits are different. Single vs. double breasted, Three button versus two. Ticket pocket versus not. Peak vs. notch lapel.
My three button suits are usually of the rolled lapel variety. I have the back of my suits in double vented, single vented, and recently no vents (which turned out quite nicely). I sometimes have a darted front and sometimes do not.
About the only thigs that are constant in my suits are beltless single pleated trousers and three buttons instead of four on my jacket sleeves. Of course the buttons are functional.
Trey
My three button suits are usually of the rolled lapel variety. I have the back of my suits in double vented, single vented, and recently no vents (which turned out quite nicely). I sometimes have a darted front and sometimes do not.
About the only thigs that are constant in my suits are beltless single pleated trousers and three buttons instead of four on my jacket sleeves. Of course the buttons are functional.
Trey
I tend to think that "additions" make most garments look busy. I have one early jacket and one old suit with slanting pockets, which I never wear (partly because I don't like the pockets). The jacket is not a hacking jacket and the suit is not a tweed suit. Should've known better 
The jacket above also has a ticket pocket. Besides that I only have it on a couple of overcoats, where I must say it adds no functionality and, aesthetically speaking, the coats would have looked cleaner and better without it. I keep the flap inside all the time hoping the presence of the pocket would be less noticeable.
I only have cuffs on one Raglan overcoat and on a silly brown top coat that is really a stylistic "salade de fruit" (but the cut is so good I can't part with it).
Turnups on all my odd trousers and a couple of DB suit trousers. Most of my suit trousers don't bear turnups.
Lapels on DB waistcoats only.
All coats and jackets have 1 or 2 vents, according to their country/city nature. No vents on DJ, stroller and my first ventless DB suit coat is in the works now.
"Less is more" is my motto on this topic.
The jacket above also has a ticket pocket. Besides that I only have it on a couple of overcoats, where I must say it adds no functionality and, aesthetically speaking, the coats would have looked cleaner and better without it. I keep the flap inside all the time hoping the presence of the pocket would be less noticeable.
I only have cuffs on one Raglan overcoat and on a silly brown top coat that is really a stylistic "salade de fruit" (but the cut is so good I can't part with it).
Turnups on all my odd trousers and a couple of DB suit trousers. Most of my suit trousers don't bear turnups.
Lapels on DB waistcoats only.
All coats and jackets have 1 or 2 vents, according to their country/city nature. No vents on DJ, stroller and my first ventless DB suit coat is in the works now.
"Less is more" is my motto on this topic.
OldBill wrote:
I must say I rather like lapels on waistcoats.
To my mind it is a shame that the waistcoat went out of fashion, it is in item of cloathing that (proberly fitted) enhances just about any body type. Even Horace Rumpole suited a waistcoat!
What do people thing about the fob watch and chain on a waistcoat? An affectation or the finishing touch?
Sator,
thank you for those pictures, I am having a black suit made next SB with waistcoat which will have lapels.
The lower picture I particularly like but would rarely attend any occaision where it would look right, mores the pity.
thank you for those pictures, I am having a black suit made next SB with waistcoat which will have lapels.
The lower picture I particularly like but would rarely attend any occaision where it would look right, mores the pity.
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Frog in Suit
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More of my quirks:
It took me years and several tries, to finally decide I prefer braces for my trousers.
I tried belt loops and braces, (with or without those short back straps to compensate for the lack of rise in the back), side straps, belts alone. Now all my trousers are designed for braces and braces alone ("fishtail" back as I believe this is called). The only exception (in the making) is a pair of very dark grey trousers to go with a navy blazer (also in the making) and these will have both braces and Daks straps, because I may find occasion to take off a blazer (in summer) whereas I never take off a suit jacket in public.
They have a single pleat facing forward which evolves into the front crease of the leg and, I feel, makes the leg seem longer. Turn-ups of course. Two back pockets with buttons and flaps. Side pockets with a vertical opening (On my older suits, they are on a slight slant, but I never gave that question much thought).
I think i have now reached the point where I do not need to change anything. A great comfort for someone as lazy as I am...
Frog in Suit
It took me years and several tries, to finally decide I prefer braces for my trousers.
I tried belt loops and braces, (with or without those short back straps to compensate for the lack of rise in the back), side straps, belts alone. Now all my trousers are designed for braces and braces alone ("fishtail" back as I believe this is called). The only exception (in the making) is a pair of very dark grey trousers to go with a navy blazer (also in the making) and these will have both braces and Daks straps, because I may find occasion to take off a blazer (in summer) whereas I never take off a suit jacket in public.
They have a single pleat facing forward which evolves into the front crease of the leg and, I feel, makes the leg seem longer. Turn-ups of course. Two back pockets with buttons and flaps. Side pockets with a vertical opening (On my older suits, they are on a slight slant, but I never gave that question much thought).
I think i have now reached the point where I do not need to change anything. A great comfort for someone as lazy as I am...
Frog in Suit
Hopefully you will indulge us with photographs when complete once again?
Why out of curiosity do you have flaps ion your back pockets?
D
Why out of curiosity do you have flaps ion your back pockets?
D
Frog in Suit wrote:More of my quirks:
It took me years and several tries, to finally decide I prefer braces for my trousers.
I tried belt loops and braces, (with or without those short back straps to compensate for the lack of rise in the back), side straps, belts alone. Now all my trousers are designed for braces and braces alone ("fishtail" back as I believe this is called). The only exception (in the making) is a pair of very dark grey trousers to go with a navy blazer (also in the making) and these will have both braces and Daks straps, because I may find occasion to take off a blazer (in summer) whereas I never take off a suit jacket in public.
They have a single pleat facing forward which evolves into the front crease of the leg and, I feel, makes the leg seem longer. Turn-ups of course. Two back pockets with buttons and flaps. Side pockets with a vertical opening (On my older suits, they are on a slight slant, but I never gave that question much thought).
I think i have now reached the point where I do not need to change anything. A great comfort for someone as lazy as I am...
Frog in Suit
Anything you always get?
Two back pockets
Turn ups and pleats to trousers
Anything you would never get?
Contrasting lining - (now)
ticket pocket on outside of jacket
Centre vent - always side or none on evening dress
Two back pockets
Turn ups and pleats to trousers
Anything you would never get?
Contrasting lining - (now)
ticket pocket on outside of jacket
Centre vent - always side or none on evening dress
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