The London Lounge

What do loungers think of cuffs (if this is the correct term) on the sleeves of a suit coat (jacket).

Is it just frippery or does it add to elegance? Is it more or less formal? Would you have them on your best "special occasion" suit?

Only on an overcoat not a suit coat for me.

I think on a business suit it would be seen as a little OTT but for the special occaision if it expresses something of yourself why not?

Not on a suit, but I have an odd jacket of green tweed, with patch pockets, belt, thin lapels and cuffs, usefull for hunting and mountain walking. It looks good because it's an informal odd jacket used on rural settings - also, it's more acceptable here in Spain because it often isn't that cold as to need a topcoat/overcoat which have cuffs.

I wouldn't have it on a suit.

I quite like the look. I believe Ian Fleming was partial to them. I'll see if I can find a photo.

I pinched these photos off A Suitable Wardrobe:

Richard Merkin


Ian Fleming (it seems that when wearing turnback cuffs, to lean on one's arm is obligatory)


This one is quite large, so I will let you click to get to it: http://bp1.blogger.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/RwG ... +cuffs.JPG

I have had cuffs on all my bespoke lounge and country suits (except the first), and on my top coats. I do not have them on DJ, evening coat or morning coats (formed cuffs are a possibility on morning and evening coats). On my swallow tail evening coat (in midnight blue) I have a blue velvet collar. Below is one of my lounge suit cuffs - sorry that the buttons are undone(!) - the picture was taken for a particular purpose and my camera has given up on me. This is not a great photo! The Fleming suit in the very photo above in this thread was something of an inspiration.




NJS

Your post, NJS, has reminded me about something that has been on my mind for a while. Are cuffs appropriate on a dinner suit? Do they make it less/more formal? If they are there, should they be in satin or grosgrain (matching the facing of the lapel)?

pvpatty wrote:Your post, NJS, has reminded me about something that has been on my mind for a while. Are cuffs appropriate on a dinner suit? Do they make it less/more formal? If they are there, should they be in satin or grosgrain (matching the facing of the lapel)?

I am not sure that there is any written prescription or even proscription for this. I remember discussing it with a senior cutter at a great firm and he said no cuffs on a DJ. He was the one who introduced me to formed cuffs on a morning coat. I think that cuffs on a DJ look a bit 1960s - 1970s - when they had those big velvet bow ties and frilly shirt-fronts.
NJS

storeynicholas wrote:I think that cuffs on a DJ look a bit 1960s - 1970s - when they had those big velvet bow ties and frilly shirt-fronts.
NJS

Well it's funny you should say this, because although I think I have seen it in a couple of AA illustrations, the first time it really stuck in my mind was a few months ago when watching a video of "The Rat Pack - Live and Swinging," where Sinatra has cuffs on his DJ. Thankfully, no velvet bow tie or frilly shirt (this was the mid 60s).

pvpatty wrote:

storeynicholas wrote:I think that cuffs on a DJ look a bit 1960s - 1970s - when they had those big velvet bow ties and frilly shirt-fronts.
NJS

Well it's funny you should say this, because although I think I have seen it in a couple of AA illustrations, the first time it really stuck in my mind was a few months ago when watching a video of "The Rat Pack - Live and Swinging," where Sinatra has cuffs on his DJ. Thankfully, no velvet bow tie or frilly shirt (this was the mid 60s).

I just think that they're a little OTT on a DJ; maybe because they probably should match the silk of the lapels. I think, on revision, that they seem late fifties early sixties - along with claret coloured evening ties and matching cummerbunds (think Trevor Howard). I don't feel that they are OTT on a city suit or a tweed suit. However, it's just a matter of personal opinion. They're not especially quirky and if all else is reasonably conventional, why not? I suppose that on a city or tweed suit, one would naturally have cuffs on the coat to match cuffs on the trousers - I mean you wouldn't have cuffs on the coat and none on the trousers - that would look strange and since evening trousers don't have cuffs - maybe that's another reason to avoid them on a DJ. Talking of all that - any views on trouser cuffs - turn-ups on city lounge suits?

NJS

All my trousers (except DJ and Morning Suit, or jeans and inexpensive chinos) have them, even cotton twill trousers and moleskins and cords. Without turn-ups, trousers look unfinished, like a SB lounge suit without a waistcoat.

Who in their right mind would dare disagree ?

Frog in Suit

Frog in Suit wrote:All my trousers (except DJ and Morning Suit, or jeans and inexpensive chinos) have them, even cotton twill trousers and moleskins and cords. Without turn-ups, trousers look unfinished, like a SB lounge suit without a waistcoat.

Who in their right mind would dare disagree ?

Frog in Suit

I'm not sure that I am in my right mind but I don't disagree.
NJS

storeynicholas wrote:

Frog in Suit wrote:All my trousers (except DJ and Morning Suit, or jeans and inexpensive chinos) have them, even cotton twill trousers and moleskins and cords. Without turn-ups, trousers look unfinished, like a SB lounge suit without a waistcoat.

Who in their right mind would dare disagree ?

Frog in Suit

I'm not sure that I am in my right mind but I don't disagree.
NJS

Come to think of it, I have recurrent doubts about my own mind. I've had it a pretty long time....

It is no reason to renounce turn-ups, though, is it?

Frog in Suit

Frog in Suit wrote:

storeynicholas wrote:

Frog in Suit wrote:All my trousers (except DJ and Morning Suit, or jeans and inexpensive chinos) have them, even cotton twill trousers and moleskins and cords. Without turn-ups, trousers look unfinished, like a SB lounge suit without a waistcoat.

Who in their right mind would dare disagree ?

Frog in Suit

I'm not sure that I am in my right mind but I don't disagree.
NJS

Come to think of it, I have recurrent doubts about my own mind. I've had it a pretty long time....

It is no reason to renounce turn-ups, though, is it?

Frog in Suit

Exactly! That's why I said that I don't disagree!
NJS