The London Lounge

I am considering having a grey flannel suit made up and would be interested in any recommendations from members as to cloth.

For solids, hard to go wrong with Minnis 12/13 oz. That might be a worsted but has a lot of interest and doesn't lose its shape too badly.

Sartorious, I've really enjoyed the 12 oz woolen flannel set from Holland & Sherry starting at 752100. The cloth is a "West of England" style with very good depth and textural interest. I have a patch pocket suit from 752100 which is a mid gray and a traditional suit from the next shade darker that will get debuted this winter.

Take a look, it's great stuff. DDM

Also, if you can find them-- Smiths has a small but excellent selection of flannels. Might be all you need.

Don't forget Hunt & Winterbotham in your seach for flannel. You'll find H&W under the banners of Hardy and Minnis.

Years ago, when I lived in New York City, Bernard Weatherill made me a three-piece chalk stripe suit from Hunt & Winterbotham cloth. It was (and still is) the most durable flannel I've ever encountered, and I've never seen a color quite like it. Charles Weatherill described it as lovat-colored (grey with a touch of sage) with a 2 cm white stripe. It was lined in mohair, something that is rarely if ever done these days. It's not the lightest rig in my wardrobe, but it's the only suit I could wear on a New York winter day with only a pashmina wrapped round my neck to keep out the chill. No overcoat required.

Do put Hunt & Winterbotham's flannel book on your shortlist of clohs to consider. If chalks aren't to your liking, chances are you'll find plain West-of-England woollen flannels in various weights more to your taste.

JMB

Fox recently sent me out a swatch for a beautiful 13 Oz charcoal grey woollen flannel. It is a subtle black/medium grey mixture with a marl effect, looking overall like a charcoal grey.

They have an exceptionally good reputation and it is generally more cost effective buying straight from the mill.

http://foxflannel.com/

They have other weights and shades of grey, so I do suggest contacting them.

What is really meant by West of England flannel?

While exposition on the exact history of "west of england" will have to wait for another member, in current use it refers to a well marled or mottled woolen flannel.. Traditionally I can imagine that WOE flannel was 14 oz+, I am using the term to describe the color effect. When you take a look at various flannels, you will see some that are mottled and some that are flat, I take WOE to be the former and not the latter.

DDM