A young tailor takes up the scissors part 3, dashing tweeds!
Posted: Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:08 am
Links to the previous two updates.
Part 1
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=7870
Part 2
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=8086
Hello again kind sirs. Every so often I stop visiting the boards; this is a sure sign that I am deep in a tailoring project. This last absence was no different. My most recent project is cut from the extraordinary Dashing Tweeds cloth.
http://www.dashingtweeds.co.uk/dt/about/
The cloth almost defies superlatives. I have been graced by the kind and talented artist behind Dashing tweeds with a complete swatch book. I have ordered cloth for clients and some for my self. This was the first completed project. When a tailor touches a length of cloth it will sing or it will not. If it does, than many happy hours of craftsmanship is before him. If the cloth is poor quality it will not sing and no amount of skill will make the tailor happy with the final piece. This cloth is of the highest quality. I have had the pleasure of using “old” cloth given to me by my mentor, cloth his father bought 60 or 70 years ago. The dashing tweeds cloth reminds me of the fine cloths of yore. On the customer service front Dashing tweeds is superb. Guy at Dashing has been nothing but helpful and quick to respond. He has even arranged a custom run length of two and a half meters for a client. ENOUGH blathering on and on….now to the photos.
The cloth. A brown, black, and plum tweed.
The concept of making a suit or a sports coat with out placing just as much thought and care into the inside is not an option. I explored my different swatches for the pocket details. From Liberty cotton prints to what felt like every silk swatch known to man….until I came across this Etro tie at the local high end department store. The colours were just right. The pink or fuchsia made the brown in the tweed pop. I bought three ties, two to cut up and use as accent for the pockets and one for the client to wear. You find the right fabric in the oddest places.
I do not always have access to the client right away so in this instance I used the computer and a scanner to produce a digital sample for the client to see. I e mailed it to him and was given approval to continue. This “digital sample” has the added benefit of helping people see a finished product.
Full canvas and totally hand tailored. I decided to adopt a more conservative style as the cloth was the focus.
The tailor form is slightly not as wide in the back as the client, thus the drape.
The pocket flaps and the pockets are all done in the two Etro ties I cut up. You would be surprised at how much fabric a tie has in it.
Again with the Etro tie details. Notice how carefully the pattern matches. This is typical of my obsession with detail.
I was so happy with the sports coat, it turned out better than I thought and I am quite critical of my own work….I am almost tempted to call this adequate. The client has ordered a thee piece suit in a stunning Black and blue tone on tone plaid. Before That I am working on a black suit with a custom printed silk lining. I must say that I have been blessed with the best clients a tailor could want. As soon as I have photos to share of the tone on tone suit I will post.
Thanks for reading.
Part 1
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=7870
Part 2
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=8086
Hello again kind sirs. Every so often I stop visiting the boards; this is a sure sign that I am deep in a tailoring project. This last absence was no different. My most recent project is cut from the extraordinary Dashing Tweeds cloth.
http://www.dashingtweeds.co.uk/dt/about/
The cloth almost defies superlatives. I have been graced by the kind and talented artist behind Dashing tweeds with a complete swatch book. I have ordered cloth for clients and some for my self. This was the first completed project. When a tailor touches a length of cloth it will sing or it will not. If it does, than many happy hours of craftsmanship is before him. If the cloth is poor quality it will not sing and no amount of skill will make the tailor happy with the final piece. This cloth is of the highest quality. I have had the pleasure of using “old” cloth given to me by my mentor, cloth his father bought 60 or 70 years ago. The dashing tweeds cloth reminds me of the fine cloths of yore. On the customer service front Dashing tweeds is superb. Guy at Dashing has been nothing but helpful and quick to respond. He has even arranged a custom run length of two and a half meters for a client. ENOUGH blathering on and on….now to the photos.
The cloth. A brown, black, and plum tweed.
The concept of making a suit or a sports coat with out placing just as much thought and care into the inside is not an option. I explored my different swatches for the pocket details. From Liberty cotton prints to what felt like every silk swatch known to man….until I came across this Etro tie at the local high end department store. The colours were just right. The pink or fuchsia made the brown in the tweed pop. I bought three ties, two to cut up and use as accent for the pockets and one for the client to wear. You find the right fabric in the oddest places.
I do not always have access to the client right away so in this instance I used the computer and a scanner to produce a digital sample for the client to see. I e mailed it to him and was given approval to continue. This “digital sample” has the added benefit of helping people see a finished product.
Full canvas and totally hand tailored. I decided to adopt a more conservative style as the cloth was the focus.
The tailor form is slightly not as wide in the back as the client, thus the drape.
The pocket flaps and the pockets are all done in the two Etro ties I cut up. You would be surprised at how much fabric a tie has in it.
Again with the Etro tie details. Notice how carefully the pattern matches. This is typical of my obsession with detail.
I was so happy with the sports coat, it turned out better than I thought and I am quite critical of my own work….I am almost tempted to call this adequate. The client has ordered a thee piece suit in a stunning Black and blue tone on tone plaid. Before That I am working on a black suit with a custom printed silk lining. I must say that I have been blessed with the best clients a tailor could want. As soon as I have photos to share of the tone on tone suit I will post.
Thanks for reading.
i like this alot also i'd like to see this coat on you client too if it is possible 