Off Saville Road Bespoke

[bump]

First, let me say hello (as I am a new member). I have until now just spent some time browsing the forum and gaining a little more knowledge but am finally at the stage where some direct help would be greatly appreciated.

I am (some would say, unfortunately) a lawyer in London and am hitting that stage of the career and age (late 20's) where it is time to move to bespoke. Previously I have favoured OTP suits from Joseph/ Acquascutum/ Jaeger etc. but have been never been completely happy with their fits.

I would love to go straight to Saville row and try one of the tailors there but I have a more limited budget than the £2 to 3,000 that I understand it can cost. As an aside I assume any sales on Saville row will not include a sale on bespoke suits?!

Does anyone have any recommendations of any off Saville row tailors who can cut a nice bespoke suit at slightly more temperate prices.

Any guidance greatly appreciated and I look forward to hopefully offering some feedback of my own when I get my first suit made!

Thanks,

Tom

[Jack_Rabbit]

Tom,

There are many, but to narrow it down, do you have a particular style in mind?

Regards

JackRabbit

[storeynicholas]

Interestingly, bespoke makers everywhere do sometimes have clothes left on their hands as a result of death and disappearances. Sometimes they actively market them in sales (New & Lingwood have done this with shoes) or will respond to requests for items by letting you see what they have, if you summon up the courage to ask them. Apart from that, there are many good tailors away from the Row and I know many people who have been very happy with Connock & Lockie in Lamb's Conduit Street and they are a lot cheaper.
NJS

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Well, I am looking for a relatively young or modern style, fairly slim cut. Having browsed quite a few of the shops on Saville Row I find myself enamoured of Kilgour but find Boatang far too flashy.

Definitely single breasted and no waistcoat etc. but apart from that want to use the expertise of the tailor. Would quite like to make the suit's weight 'light' as I often find myself overheating in under a/c offices.

I think my essential requirement is to start off a wardrobe of bespoke with some classic base suits and then start branching out to more interesting areas.

Hopefully that offers some guidance Jack Rabbit and thanks for the offer of help.

Tom

[melia]

you could try Des Merrion.
I have a quite a few suits, odd jackets and trousers off him and am more than happy.

He will also help you decide what you want and advise if you're unsure.

http://www.desmerrionbespoketailor.com/

[Manself]

May I suggest you speak to Chris Kerr, who works in Soho? He's made me a number of good suits, and if you can explain to him what you want I'm sure he can make it for you.

[Jack_Rabbit]

I also use Chris and have been very pleased with the results so far. I'm relatively young (34) and have similar demands to yourself Tom. I like a clean looking waisted silouette, again single breasted with modern touches on traditional tailoring.

You'll find Chris very competitively priced given that everything is done on-site too.

Regards

Jack Rabbit.

[Jack_Rabbit]

Forgot to mention that I posted a few pics of Chris's work in another thread -

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... c&start=15

Excuse the picture quality. I plan on explaining modern camera techniques to the wife when she finally gives up her Box Brownie.

Regards

Jack Rabbit.

[bump]

Thanks all for the suggestions.

I like the look of both of the tailors suggested - Des and Chris - and will get in contact with them this week to talk through what they offer and my requirements.

Jack, I have to say I like the pics of the suit you posted very much. Very similar to the cut I was thinking of (and your choice of cloth is interesting whilst also managing to be formal)

Jack, can I ask the rough price for a 2 piece bespoke suit from Chris. Des's prices are very helpfully front and centre on his website and seem reasonable for a very expensive hobby....



Tom

[Jack_Rabbit]

Tom,

Approximately £1,100 for the two-piece referred to in the thread. The cloth was from Scabel's Triple 'A' bunch and has an element of cashmere running through it i.e. a relatively expensive cloth, making Chris's prices even more competitive.

Regards

Jack Rabbit

[Haider]

Hi,

I too am in the same boat. I am about to buy my first bespoke suit. I have a shortlist of three tailors: -

George's Tailors
50 Wightman Road
Harringay
London
N4 1RU

Threadneedleman Tailors (George Dyer)
187a Walworth Road,
London
SE17 1RW

George Bespoke Tailor
143 Cleveland Street
Fitzrovia
London
W1T 6QQ


I need to select one. Unfortunately after speaking to all three, I feel they are capable of producing a 1 button single breasted slim suit. I like the Huntsman, Kilgour and Boateng cut. All three tailors come in roughly at the same price. Could you please advise me on how to narrow down my selection to just one? Has anybody got experience of these tailors and what there merits are over one another?


Thanks
Haider

[Pickandpick]

Dear Haider

Mr Dyer - his website might inform your decision - unless you really like tight, strangulative "ModCulture" suits.

I have used George (but not for 20 years). His work is perfectly acceptable but does not approach Savile Row quality in terms of cut, finishing and trimmings. You must check his measurements as trousers were often cut meanly or too short - probably because he did not order enough cloth in the first place. He is, however, a lovely man and very fair (as I remember) on price.

Have you considered Mr Antoniou in Grays Inn Road?

[storeynicholas]

Costello & Sons (0208 478 2780) in Ilford are really very good and good value - lower overheads and probably own the building; they also undertake work for military uniforms and as theatrical costumiers - starting at around £1,000 for a suit 2 years ago. I've not had anything from them but I have seen their work and you would certainly not be risking a hostage to fortune for the money.

Connock & Lockie (0207 831 2479) in Lamb's Conduit Street are also very good but probably a bit pricier than Costello.

You could just ask them what's what these days.
NJS

[Haider]

Hi,

Could you tell me which George you are refering to? All three tailors are called George:-)

I shall do a search on Mr Antoniou. I'm not looking for a Rolls Royce quality/price tailor more a Mercedes S class suit

Thanks
Haider

Dear Haider

Mr Dyer - his website might inform your decision - unless you really like tight, strangulative "ModCulture" suits.

I have used George (but not for 20 years). His work is perfectly acceptable but does not approach Savile Row quality in terms of cut, finishing and trimmings. You must check his measurements as trousers were often cut meanly or too short - probably because he did not order enough cloth in the first place. He is, however, a lovely man and very fair (as I remember) on price.

Have you considered Mr Antoniou in Grays Inn Road?

[Pickandpick]

Dear Haider

Mr Antoniou 020 78375168 makes a good approximation of a SR suit. Good finishing as a rule.

C&L - Mr Craig is ex Huntsman - a very individual cutter with great flair. I used him in the 1990s. Probably too expensive now - he was charging me about £2k for a 3 piece and extra trsrs back in 1999.


"George" - good point! The "George" I was referring to is in Cleveland St.