The London Lounge

Dear All,

Hereunder, pictures of my second (chronologically) suit from Meyer & Mortimer. Cloth is Smith Woollens, reference 3901, 12/13 oz.







I DO find it hard to stand naturally!

Kind regards,

Frog in Suit

Very nice FIS, and while this is a thread about the suit, I especially like the shirt and tie combination.

Out of interest, how does the suit hang with the bottom button undone?

Dear Frog,
Very nice suit and, apart from scrunching your shoulders up a little, you are standing more easily which shows this outfit off - but still no pictures in motion?
NJS

Monsieur Frog,

A great cloth selection, the 3901 is one of my favorite pick and picks.

It would be good to have your tailor shorten the back rise of your trouser, ie le montant

Cheers

Michael

Nice facbric sir.

However, in my opinion the sleeves are too long. A good 1 cm off would be much better.

Stromen

To each his own: the sleeves appear a fine length to me, though I'd like slightly shorter trousers -- just touching the shoe, scarcely breaking. I do like the lining -- the same color I generally use -- but agree with Michael Alden regarding the back of the trousers. Finally, I might see if the tailors could be a bit neater in sewing buttonholes.

All in all, another fine suit -- according to my taste, that is.

Frog, a fine suiting. Thank you for sharing it with us.

I see nothing wrong with the sleeve length. Personally, I like to show a bit of cuff, but others like to show none, and there is nothing wrong with that.

As to the length of the trousers, in my experience trousers with cuffs tend to have a slightly more pronounced break because they cannot be cut on a slant. The length is in fact the same, except that plain finished trousers will be a touch shorter at the front.

With brace trousers sometimes the problem can be that the braces need to be tightened up a bit. It is worth playing around with their length before getting the trousers shortened.

As always, the view from behind is very telling - with a clean fit, moulding to the waist nicely.

On taking another look at the sleeve length being commented on, I think that the left sleeve length is fine, but that the right may need shortening. The reason is because of a dropped shoulder on the left, causing more sleeve to show.

All structural asymmetry like this will have downstream consequences. So note too that the left dropped shoulder causes the right hip to sit a tad higher than the left. The result is that the trousers hems on the left have a stronger breaker.

The solution is to have different sleeve and trouser lengths for both sides (assuming this is not an artefact of transient posture).

The upcoming analysis is based on my personal view and may not be shared by others.
Overall the suit looks really nice, the length of jacket, trousers and sleeves are basically good(although the right sleeve should be shortened a bit, and the trouser hem is too straight).
Having said that I do have some thoughts:

1.


It appears to me that the front part needs some length. Even when taking in consideration that you don't stand completely naturally, there should be some centimetres more, as indicated by the blue arrow and the red line.
2. The red arrow in the first image points at a little distortion, that is probably caused by the lateral seam in the back, where the waist suppression is too strong. Letting out here may make that distortion in the front disappear.

3. The trousers do look nice, but they need some centimetres of length to be taken away in the rear. With a close look at the back, I would say that the pocket flaps are cut in the right grain. Check for the red line, which indicates the warp.


This suit may appear like a fail now, but its nothing serious. The look of the sleeves is a matter of personal taste, but I've seen better ones made by Des Merrion or Mr. DeBoise, who both cut a 50/50 sleeve. Putting in a sleeve well is a tricky thing and takes years of expertise. I found several articles about that matter in my books and magazines, which indicates the problems tailors around the globe have with it.

Let's wait for other, more experienced tailors to comment on the suit and/or even on my view of things.


SG

sartorius wrote:Frog, a fine suiting. Thank you for sharing it with us.

I see nothing wrong with the sleeve length. Personally, I like to show a bit of cuff, but others like to show none, and there is nothing wrong with that.

As to the length of the trousers, in my experience trousers with cuffs tend to have a slightly more pronounced break because they cannot be cut on a slant. The length is in fact the same, except that plain finished trousers will be a touch shorter at the front.

Presumably, the trousers from the second suit were cut by the same cutter, using the same pattern as the first and several people remarked on how well they fell on the shoes - so, perhaps it is the braces here. It may well be difficult to achieve the desired effect with turn-ups (or cuffs) but, as well as the FiS's other recent suit on the LL, I think that both Duff Cooper and Rudolph Valentino, in several photos, were remarkable for wearing cuffed trousers that just brushed the tops of the shoes.
NJS

sartorius wrote:[...] trousers with cuffs [...] cannot be cut on a slant.

I think they actually CAN be cut slightly on a slant, although there is a certain amount of handwork involved in adjusting the seams so the turnups don't gap or pull. It doesn't work too well with patterned cloth.
However, I agree with NJS that cuffed trousers look best if the hem is straight and barely touches the shoe vamp.

FiS, I like the general outlook and styling of your suit. Perhaps with a few of the above suggested adjustments that would improve the fit (esp. trousers) your suit could look even better, but the general line and construction is there. Finally, as this suit is probably not meant for your wax replica at Mme Tussaud's, when you move around in real life it behaves more naturally.