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DeBoise Fittings

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 3:06 am
by voxsartoria
Here are some fitting (forward fitting on the suit, basted fitting on the dinner jacket and trousers, although these are approximations with traveling tailors) photographs from this afternoon with my tailor, Edwin DeBoise, proprietor of Steed, who was in Boston visiting clients.

Edwin is always such a pleasure to see again.

The first is a SB, three button suit made from the brown nailhead from the new Lesser 9.5/10 ounce book, the other is a DB dinner jacket and trousers in a Fisher.

Nothing really controversial in either: the first has a out ticket pocket; the latter has a fishtail back for the trousers (sorry, no good photo of this). Flat fronts on the trousers.

Don't mind the shirt...it does not fit well.

I hope that you find the photographs amusing.

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For the next round, I am thinking of an odd coat in a Glenroyal, and a Golden Bale mid gray in a DB 6/4 suit...with patch out pockets!


Best Regards,
Bill

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:07 am
by masterfred
Thanks for posting these. Mr. Deboise cuts an attractive variant of the A&S style.

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:55 pm
by Gruto
Nice, I like them. The coats have a good waist. No exaggeration. Everything seems to balance very well.

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 12:27 am
by kolecho
The garments look very at home and relaxed on its future owner. Well done!

Dinner Jacket Vents

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:45 am
by mmkn2
Are you doing vents on your DJ? If so, your thoughts on them re: formality, please.

Thanks,

- M

Re: Dinner Jacket Vents

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:18 pm
by voxsartoria
mmkn2 wrote:Are you doing vents on your DJ? If so, your thoughts on them re: formality, please.

Thanks,

- M
Yes. Double vents.

I think that a DB dinner jacket is intrinsically somewhat casual, and this commision fills the niche of casual dinner wear for me, not the most formal, not the least, but somewhere in the middle. I will always be wearing a soft turndown collar with it and double fold cuffs.

If I were doing an SB dinner jacket, I would do link close on the front and no vents, vest, and a formal shirt.

But, a fair amount of personal preference is possible here, I think, without risking inelegance.


- B

Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 7:08 pm
by alden
Vox,

Very nice looking fittings as I would expect.

The DJ is black. What weight cloth did you choose? Is it a barathea? Smiths has a lovely 13 ozs black barathea that I used on a shawl DJ. But a new DB peak is on the list of new projects so I would be keen to know what cloth you chose and for which reasons.

The Lesser 9.5-10 is a clear winner and I will be happy to see how the suits turn out.

Cheers

Michael