The London Lounge

Dear All

I am about to venture into the world of 3 piece suiting- I have a few questions that I hope any of you chaps may be able to help me with:

1. With the addition of a waistcoat should ones coat be larger than with a two piece? For example: a chest measurement of 42 inches for a 2 piece, should the measurements be increased to accommodate the waistcoat, e.g. 42 1/2?

2. Is there a rule regarding the backs of waistcoats? A silk material or can the same cloth be used at the back? If silk is used should it be a shade of the suit i.e. blue with a navy suit or should it contrast?

3. Is there a general acceptance as to number of buttons on the waistcoat or is it simply personal preference?

Many thanks in advance for any help

You might want to read this blog from the 3rd of April.

http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/


Regards
MEK

Suitcoat is more or less the same size;
satin or silk for the back, self cloth would be too bulky. color choice is up to you, but I prefer a close match to the main cloth for business suits;
standard is five working buttons with the sixth button placed on the curve and not functional, I have had at least one made without the sixth button.

I agree with Dopey's comments.

1. Coat should be about the same since the waistcoat is intended to be form fitting.
2. Same cloth can be used on the back if the waistcoat is intended to be worn without a jacket. Otherwise, a lining material on the back keeps it slimmer and facilitates the putting on and off of your jacket. (Of course, you can do it either way to you want.) Contrast the back color if you like flash; I prefer less contrast.
3. Six: 5 plus one nonfunctional at the bottom. I've seen six all functional (last one left undone). I've seen five (all functional). Four or less doesn't look right to me, as though corners were cut to save buttons or labor. More than six starts to get busy. I admit I haven't seen all vests in the world and some probably pull off different numbers just fine (especially with a much longer or shorter torso). I take six as a rule of thumb.

To me, the waistcoat is an aesthetic accent whether of the same suit material or different. Buttons, color, texture, and material all contribute. Too much and it takes away from the rest of the outfit, drawing attention. Too little and it looks like it doesn't belong and drags the overall appearance down.

pbc

Here is the one I am wearing today - an odd vest with a suit. The fabric is a fawn wool / silk with an oxford cloth weave, with a silk back.



Have your tailor cut vents in the side seams, so the vest doesn’t bunch up when seated.





This is how it shows from beneath the DB suit coat.

Lovely waistcoat, Costi.

I prefer a slightly lower neckline for myself, but I really appreciate the detailing and workmanship on this, as well as the overall styling. I noticed you did without the top pockets. I have started to do that with mine, though I have mixed feelings about it. Getting rid of them cleans up the front, which can get busy with flapped lower pockets and lapels, both of which I really like. But I do miss them.

I also notice you do without the backstrap. I know they are not really functional, but I am used to having them.

I also have mine made without a backstrap. As you say, if the waistcoat is bespoke, the potential range of adjustment offered by a strap isn't really necessary; the tailor can simply cut for your waist size (an incentive to stay active). I find that the backstrap not only adds some lumpish bulk under the coat (epecially if it's actually cinching up some fullness) but also that the straps themselves (judging by decades of movies and the two bestrapped vests I've owned) begin to look sad long before the vest itself. Some may find this elegantly degagé; I myself might on a trench coat belt but not on a waistcoat.

I quite like your waistcoat, Costi, though I tend (on the rare occasions I've had one made) to have the front a bit closer. But it's the cloth that most attracts me. Might you remember whose it is?

Dopey, you are right, the neckline IS rather high, but it was cut to be worn with DB coats. This is why I took the picture with the coat on - it has a wide overlap to balance the wide lapels (like them or not) and consequently has a high lapel cross point: had the vest neckline been any lower, it would have been completely hidden. Given this tailor's tendency to cut a crooked coat, the waistcoat doesn't look too bad with some of his SB coats, either.
I find I rarely use waistcoat pockets and probably less so under a DB coat, but I kept the lower ones for beauty's sake.
Another tailor used to make me waistcoats with a piece of elastic sewn in place (slightly tensioned) in the back pannel. My waistline was a few centimeters larger when this waistcoat was made, but even with this variation I find the fit still acceptable without need for a buckle and strap.
RWS, unfortunately I don't remember who weaved the cloth, I only remember that it was English and I bought it in a cloth shop in central Budapest. The selvedge, of course, was cut away.