The London Lounge

I still wear jeans in casual situations and would like to replace them with an equally durable odd trouser. I desire to retain the utility of denim however.

What kind of cloth and in what weight would be best for this type of trouser?

13oz cavalry twill maybe?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Chris

Sounds like you have the right idea - cavalry or covert twill. Maybe also something like a bedford cord.

Thanks Cantabrigian. I'm not familiar with bedford cord or covert twill...so that give me two more options to check out next time my tailor is in town.

Chris

Though perhaps too warm for spring. ‘moleskin’ is also quite durable.

I would also suggest considering a plain tweed as a utility cloth during the colder months. Tweeds are very hardy, and hence are the cloth of choice for country activities such as hunting, riding and mountain climbing.

Naturally, the ideal utility garment here are plus twos or plus fours. The idea is that there would be no hems to get drag through the mud - far more utilitarian than any pair of jeans, I say!

Thanks.

I've got an 18oz tweed odd jacket on its way to me right now from Desmond Merrion. Next season I think I'll order a pair of trousers in the same weight.

If you want to get a sturdy cloth to replace the omnipresent jean you can choose cords, cavalry twill, whipcord, or bedford cord.

Here is a picture of bedford cord as presented in the Phitwell thread in the Bespoke forum



The trick is that you have to be careful with the color selection with the odd trouser. It should be something useful in combination with your coats. Prefer tans and browns. Greens are difficult if you wear green tweeds as the tones will combat one another. Gray is great for flannels but are less satisfying in cavalry twills or whipcord. A stout tan cavalry twill or cord is a very useful choice.

M Alden

Thanks a lot Michael. I shall make good use of this information!

A note on whipcord: I have read it stated elsewhere on the forums that whipcord may not exceed 12 ozs.

I chose a 36 ounce whipcord both for my next Chesterfield and for the LL Weekend Bag because I preferred its color to the 42 ounce variant.

Michael Alden

+1 for cavalry twill. I have a bespoke pair of heavy cavalry twill trousers that drape beautifully, and wear like iron. I'm sure they will outlast my jeans.

sam wrote:+1 for cavalry twill. I have a bespoke pair of heavy cavalry twill trousers that drape beautifully, and wear like iron. I'm sure they will outlast my jeans.

Thanks sam. 'What is the weight (in ounces) of your trousers?