Alum-tawed pig for shoes, etc.?
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:02 pm
Gents,
RJman's recent question about leather quantities along with the appearance of the new LL adelaide spectator prompt a question, or perhaps reflection.
Does alum-tawed pig have a place among elegant shoe or accessory leathers? It's been used in bookbinding since the 15th century at least, and the nature of the alkaline tanning salts lends it phenomenal strength and longevity. Most surviving early bindings covered in it still flex freely at the hinges and have not split, something extremely rare among even the high-quality calf bindings of the time and later. Alum-tawed pig is a beautiful matte white color that goes through the skin, with a mild but distinct grain pattern like peccary and visible pores from the bristles.
It is not napped like suede, and can take some moisture (it's thoroughly dampened to be worked around binding boards, and was / is often blind-stamped with designs). With much handling it takes on a creamy patina, but this takes a lot of doing.
I wondered whether it might make an interesting alternative to white buck or suede for spectators or summer shoes, perhaps less vulnerable to surface damage. and perhaps handling flexing with greater equanimity than buck or suede.
It is still made in small quantities by J. Hewit & Sons in Edinburgh (http://www.hewit.com/download/fs-tol.pdf) (and perhaps others). It is much used in the conservation of rare books and in fine contemporary bookbinding. I don't know much about its handling characteristics and whether they would lend themselves to lasting and so on. If we have any bottiers or cordwainers reading, perhaps they could offer an opinion. I suspect it is also more expensive than all but the most exclusive calf, but in the context of a bespoke shoe that might not be significant. It is surely less costly than exotics like the Russian reindeer hides and alligator--perhaps even than shell cordovan.
I haven't been able to find easily any online close-up photos of the leather, but there are several decent B&W shots toward the end of the following article by my former colleague Bruce Levy (on conservation binding structures) that give an indication of the leather's qualities: http://aic.stanford.edu/sg/bpg/annual/v06/bp06-08.html
Has anyone ever seen it used for shoes? Are there other articles that suggest themselves as candidates?
RJman's recent question about leather quantities along with the appearance of the new LL adelaide spectator prompt a question, or perhaps reflection.
Does alum-tawed pig have a place among elegant shoe or accessory leathers? It's been used in bookbinding since the 15th century at least, and the nature of the alkaline tanning salts lends it phenomenal strength and longevity. Most surviving early bindings covered in it still flex freely at the hinges and have not split, something extremely rare among even the high-quality calf bindings of the time and later. Alum-tawed pig is a beautiful matte white color that goes through the skin, with a mild but distinct grain pattern like peccary and visible pores from the bristles.
It is not napped like suede, and can take some moisture (it's thoroughly dampened to be worked around binding boards, and was / is often blind-stamped with designs). With much handling it takes on a creamy patina, but this takes a lot of doing.
I wondered whether it might make an interesting alternative to white buck or suede for spectators or summer shoes, perhaps less vulnerable to surface damage. and perhaps handling flexing with greater equanimity than buck or suede.
It is still made in small quantities by J. Hewit & Sons in Edinburgh (http://www.hewit.com/download/fs-tol.pdf) (and perhaps others). It is much used in the conservation of rare books and in fine contemporary bookbinding. I don't know much about its handling characteristics and whether they would lend themselves to lasting and so on. If we have any bottiers or cordwainers reading, perhaps they could offer an opinion. I suspect it is also more expensive than all but the most exclusive calf, but in the context of a bespoke shoe that might not be significant. It is surely less costly than exotics like the Russian reindeer hides and alligator--perhaps even than shell cordovan.
I haven't been able to find easily any online close-up photos of the leather, but there are several decent B&W shots toward the end of the following article by my former colleague Bruce Levy (on conservation binding structures) that give an indication of the leather's qualities: http://aic.stanford.edu/sg/bpg/annual/v06/bp06-08.html
Has anyone ever seen it used for shoes? Are there other articles that suggest themselves as candidates?