The London Lounge

I have had quite a few emails as a result of the LL Balmoral boot posting regarding cordovan leather. It seems (as with many things) there is a tidy sum of misinformation about cordovan leather floating about the net on various forums. As a confirmed cordovan fan for over thirty years, I will give you some of my impressions of this very rare product. We might go so far as to say vanishing product since Horween, the producer from Illinois, is finding it increasing difficult to find quality pieces of horse leather to make cordovan for shoes.

Cordovan leather is almost impossible to wear out. It will be damaged, cut, scraped after decades of use before it wears a bit. The leather is naturally water resistant and warm. It is also very comfortable to wear as it is soft.

One of the myths that need debunking says cordovan leather is difficult to maintain. In fact, nothing could be easier. All you need to maintain your cordovan shoes is water, soap, a towel and a brush. I use a bar of savon de Marseille, though any saddle soap or dishwashing soap is just as fine. A little tepid water, soap and a good wash. Let the shoes dry. Take your brush and polish very vigorously. The heat from the brushing brings the natural oils in the leather to the surface and the polish appears. There is never a need for wax. Let me repeat, NEVER a need for wax. As a matter of fact, wax can damage cordovan leather by filling its pores and keeping the natural oils form moving to the surface.

Cordovan leather does acquire lots of folds and pleats over time. That is exactly what we like about it. Cordovan is the cobbler’s equivalent to drape and soft tailoring. The pleats and ripples add character.

Cheers.

I would concur with all of the above with the caveat that I find that cordovan shoes are very warm-wearing, and I seem to endure very sweaty feet when I wear them. But for long-term durability and good looks in a leather shoe, there's no real substitute.

I like cordovan and don't find its wearing humid or otherwise uncomfortable. But I seldom do wear my few pairs (none custommade, but, rather, from Alden -- fittingly, I suppose!), chiefly from concern about caring for the leather. Michael's simple and straightforward guidelines encourage me but leave me with a single question: needn't anything be done to replenish the natural oils?

needn't anything be done to replenish the natural oils?

Cordovan leather is very rich in its own oils. You just have to heat it with brushing to get the oil to the surface. I have 20 year old cordovan shoes that have never seen wax or oils, they are supple and shine with a bit of brushing. OK, let's define a bit of brushing. Best is a pretty coarse brush and you need to really go at the leather vigorously. Don't be gentle, you cannot hurt the leather with the brush. Try it..

I can wear cordovan on a daily basis through all seasons, and do not find them warm. Its patina is amazing and adds so much character. Get as many colours as you can before Horween runs out of shells. Carmina and Alden combined have about ten colours: black, bordeaux, dark brown, mod brown, cognac, ravello, cigar, ruby, green, navy.

alden wrote:. . . . I have 20 year old cordovan shoes that have never seen wax or oils, they are supple and shine with a bit of brushing. . . . Try it..

Thanks for the encouragement, Michael; I will.

Here's a final tip: if you have been applying oils, waxes, creams, goop and glop on the shoes for years, you will have to do a deep cleaning. Take some dish water soap and a dish brush and wash those shoes. It may take two or three goes to get the accumulated gunk off the shoes, so they can breath and the natural oils can rise to the surface again.

Let the shoes dry overnight and then attack with the brush.

Michael

Alden and others,

Why do so few companies use Cordovan

I tried with G & G recently but they mentioned small supply of cordovan out there for the lack of availability on their line of shoes

Edward Green does not use Cordovan

Alden (the American company that is), is about the only shoe maker with a consistent model range containing the various colors

If other shoe makers offer cordovan, who are they?

Carmina Albaladejo have some nice lasts and are cordovan specialists from Spain.

Michael,

Miguel gave me a bottle of cordovan cream when I was last in Paris (um...last year). I have used it a couple of times on my shoes, and they look lovely with them. What do you think about these purpose made cordovan creams?

ay329 wrote:If other shoe makers offer cordovan, who are they?

Vass has a lot of cordovan models.

I believe Crockett & Jones offers some cordovan models, and can do special orders at their normal extortionate rates.

English makers don't usually like to use cordovan because it is more difficult to work. Also, there might be some prejudice among their landed clientele about wearing shoes made from horses.

Some selected thoughts about shell cordovan from my experiences with four pairs of shoes:

1. In my opinion, Alden is mostly right, but not entirely so. Shell cordovan does require very little maintenance to remain looking good. Occasional cleaning if necessary and brushing (I finish with a soft cloth) is usually sufficient. I would, however, mildly disagree about the negative consequences of applying the occasional polishing. I have spoken to both Alden and Horween about care of shell cordovan, and both recommend the occasional (less frequent than needed with calfskin) polishing with wax. On a written sheet that comes with their shell cordovan shoes, Alden make this recommendation too. Alden market a small bottle of their wax ostensibly designed for shell cordovan leather (but which could be no different from regular shoe polishes that contain wax; I don't know for sure). They recommend using this sparingly, but using it nonetheless. Horween concurred with this recommendation and, in addition, suggested a shell cordovan conditioner that would be beneficial to the leather (even if not absolutely needed). They don't market it, and I'm ashamed to say that I've forgotten the name of it, never having bought any--it's a generic product, and if I think of it, I'll come back on and post it.

I don't know how one would restore the color to shell cordovan leather that had been badly scuffed (and hence manifesting lighter scratches and scraped areas) by Alden's regimen alone. A sparing application of wax will solve the problem.

2. Shell cordovan shoes are routinely available from Vass as Concordia notes, and also by Crockett & Jones--the latter as a regular offering--on a few models. I have their Onslow in burgundy shell cordovan, and paid roughly 20% more for them than for a pair of Handgrades. I have a pair of Vass shoes in shell cordovan, and, interestingly, found their version of it somewhat less "bulky" (for lack of a better word) than Alden's. It feels a little more supple and looks a little less waxy. I don't know why this is because I understand that everyone (or just about everyone) gets their shell cordovan from Horween's. For someone who's into vintage shoes, there are lots of pairs of older Florsheims, Johnston & Murphys, Nettletons, and other American makes available from sources like eBay. Sometimes, these are old/new stock--i.e., never worn, but just sitting in some warehouse or home for 30 or 40 years!

I am quite sure there are excellent products on the market designed specifically to be used on cordovan leathers. Carmina, Alden and other firms that have great experience with the product can be trusted to provide them. Horween's advice is also extremely valuable.

Just one thing, do not overdo it on the cream and wax. Be very and I do mean "very" sparing in the application of same.

If you get a good scrape or scratch, clearly use the appropriate remedy to restore your shoe's good looks.

Apply small amounts of any product you happen to choose.

M Alden

Is it best to use a regular horsehair polishing brush or do you recommend something stiffer?

Use as stiff a brush as you can find. I have seen cordovan leather polished on a motor driven belt polisher with nearly sand paper like brushes attached. The same treatment would turn calf leather into shredded carrot salad. So brush the daylights out of it and the natural oils will polish the shoe for you.