The London Lounge

Gentlemen,

My next commission from Desmond Merrion is going to be a navy odd jacket with two buttons, notched lapels, patch pockets and a welt breast pocket.

Climate wise...I live in Atlanta, GA. So I'm thinking I need to stick around 10oz-11oz** to get the most use out of the jacket.

There are obviously endless varieties of navy swatches to peruse and choose from, but I wanted to draw from the wealth of experience on this forum and ask for cloth suggestions.

I want a smooth worsted with some lustre (though not "shiny"). The other thing I desire is a high level of durability. I want this to be my go-to odd jacket and I need it to stand up to constant use.

**I will primarily be wearing this jacket indoors and at night, so if I need to bump up the weight of the jacket to 13oz to achieve the durability I seek then that shouldn't be a problem, especially considering the super-light and soft construction Desmond uses on my garments.

So...any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Chris Rimby

Chris

Have Des show you Lesser's new 10 ozs book. There are some wonderful blue jackets in this selection and the cloth itself is a very high twist wool, with a great hand, resilient and, undoubtedly, long wearing. (PS Its the new 10 ozs book, not the 10 ozs book with cashmere.)

Michael Alden

Thank you Michael.

minnis fresco in navy ether the 10oz or even the 15oz too, these are pretty good also as a further consideration

Personally, I only really like plain navy jackets if they're blazers w/ metal buttons (and then I'd go for fresco, hopsack or flannel).

For what you want, maybe you should get something with a bit of mohair - that will give it a bit of sheen and keep it light enough to wear indoors at ATL parties.

For the intended use, it sounds like durability is less of an issue - any good cloth should be able to hold up well enough.

I would go with the 10 oz Minnis Fresco. That is my plan anyway. Also, there is a nice navy mohair blend in the H&S Crispaire book.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardy ... o=H?cate=P?

I'm wearing #7526 today, and while it's not exactly as you specified, it is a decent all-rounder in a lighter weight. It is slightly fuzzy, so it doesn't really feel like a summer jacket but is light and drapes well.

For much lighter weight, there is a blue herringbone in the P&H Solway collection.

I second Minnis fresco in the 9/10 oz range. I also have a H&S Crispaire mohair 9/10 oz which hangs like steel. Both have a traditional feel to it and have lots of body for its weight class. Have a feel and see which one tugs at your heart.

Connock & Lockie (mentioned in the forum) made me a blazer and the cutter recommended navy blue serge, as the traditional cloth (also light and durable). Maybe a barathea might feature - possibly too hot for you there. I had Nelson buttons (gilt embossed with an anchor at an angle) and besom pockets but necessarily without flaps - patch pockets always look untidy to me except on shooting coats and safari jackets. I am told that DJs (tuxedos) and blazers never have pocket flaps.

storeynicholas wrote:. . . . I am told that DJs (tuxedos) and blazers never have pocket flaps.

Blazers often do have flapped pockets, especially in the States, whether besom or patch. Pockets on the outside of dinner jackets shouldn't be flapped, of course, on either side of the Atlantic.

'Has something to do with supposed intimacy (hence, security) of the ambience in which the garment is worn, I imagine.

If the reason for pocket flaps says something about 'security and ambience' it doesn't say much for the security and ambience of modern business methods, in the age of globalization (on both sides of the northern Atlantic). Give me an authority for the proposition that blazer pockets have flaps, please.

An authority for the proposition? Mine own two eyes! Quite seriously, it's what I generally see, at least when I look, at nearly all American gatherings at which blazers are commonly worn. Neither social nor economic class nor age seems to affect the custom, as best I can recall late on a winter's eve.

And do they wear naval and military badges stitched onto the outer breast pocket too?

A few men do wear embroidered badges of clubs or societies. It would be considered a bit of bad form in the circles in which I normally move, but I have seen it done.

Do remember, Nicholas, that I make my observations about contemporary practice in the northeastern United States, though I continue to have moderately extensive contact with the Southern states and southern England, where, of course, appearances are somewhat different.