Cleverley vs. Lobb

[Raglan]

Do any of our esteemed members have any experience with G J Cleverley in London? Any thoughts? Are they worth trying out?

I am a customer of Lobb Paris and would be interested in hearimg a comparison from someone who has tried both.

Does one boot maker have an advantage over the other?

[Concordia]

I have not tried Lobb Paris, but I can heartily endorse Cleverley. Very traditional shoes, with the best fit out of the gate I have had from any bespoke shoe maker. Finish is a lot less flashy than JL, but is well-done and honest. Fair prices, as such things go. Dominic Casey is introducing a few new designs that are somewhat reminiscent of Lobb.

[smoothjazzone]

Manton will be in a better position to answer as he has tried both -- a few observations (I am a customer of Cleverley but not Lobb Paris):

> Cleverley will have amazing fit right from the start -- the last shapes are extremely elegant especially if you ask them to stay away from anything too round

From what I have heard from others -- Lobb may take longer but will eventually get there; Manton did describe his Cleverley shoes as feeling "more bespoke"

Also, visually, the Lobbs tend to be larger format whereas Cleverley seeks to make the shoes appear as small as possible (most people think I am 5 sizes smaller than I really am -- Lobb bespoke I have seen tend to be the classic banana shape whereas the Cleverley shoes I have tend to be "straighter" at the inside -- hard to explain without a picture -- but both can look quite elegant

Cleverley has the classic chisel toe that is extremely attractive while Lobbs preference will be a very elegant round toe -- both can make either though

> Finishing -- no comparison -- Lobb will win hands down everytime but Cleverley is more than adequate

> Price -- Cleverley is far and away the leader here and is realistically half the price of Lobb Paris -- Lobb's starting price is only available for a couple of shoe designs

> Convenience -- Lobb now has a bespoke fitter in the NY store -- never met the chap but may make it easier if you are located on the East Coast

> People -- Lobb folks are very professional and courteous -- but I really do like George's silly English jokes and puns!

[manton]

I agree with pretty much everything Smoothjazz says here.

Cleverley was my first bespoke shoemaker, and I have more from them than from any other maker. The fit of the first pair was dead on, and I have made no changes to my last since. The shape is very much geared to the shape of your actual foot. This has two principal effects. First, as Smoothjazz writes, it results in a very small-looking shoe. I have shoes that feel much tighter tbut hat look much bigger. Cleverleys are miraculous in this respect. They look incredibly small, yet don't feel restrictive anywhere. Second, the shape will be idiosyncratic. The shoes will conform pretty faithfully to the twists and turns of your actual foot. The result is a shoe that is unique-looking, and hard to mistake for ready-to-wear.

Smooth is also correct that the finishing lags behind other makers. You will see a little sloppiness here and there: loose stitches, blotches of misapplied polish, etc. The bevelled waist won't be as tight as you will see on other makers.

Lobb Paris made me the finest pair of shoes I own. However -- the first pair they made were terrible. Spendidly made, but the fit was off and the shape looked atrocious. I refused to accept them. They remade the shoes, and the second pair were (are) things of beauty. The last is a little more "normal" looking than Cleverley, but still unique enough to be unmistakeably bespoke. The quality of the workmanship is hands down, far and away superior.

But the price is high, and has gotten stratospheric with the weak dolllar. While I love my Lobbs, and would get more if money were no object, I have to say that Cleverley is a far better value.

[Raglan]

Thank you all for your responses - I knew that I would get excellent feedback from true connoiseurs!

I was wondering whether it is best to go with the famous Cleverley chisel toe. I have big wide duck feet so not sure what is the most appropriate for enhancement. Anyhow, I am sure that they will advise me.

Is there a particular gentleman / last maker that I should seek out?

Thanks agaiin

P.S. Manton, my first and only pair of Lobbs were a disaster too. They look like aircraft carriers. I had asked for comfort, but the size takes the mickey. I wish I had as much confidence at the time as you to refuse them - but it was my first pair of bespoke shoes so I did not know what to expect...

[edhayes]

they make a terrific Cleverly toe, George Cleverly was perfection itself with that design, its a chisel sloped toe-having said that, it looks ridiculous on feet not cut out for it. I like a sloped toe box and if you have a big foot, why not have a high toe box with a slanted round toe?
Look at the Amesbury web site for some ideas
Cleverly has made shoes for me for 30 years and they have only gotten better. Dominic Casey is a very good designer. I am thinking of having a made that is shark with a calf lake and a celtic cross brogued into the lake.

[masterfred]

I am thinking of having a made that is shark with a calf lake and a celtic cross brogued into the lake.

Will there be a lady's arm rising from the water and brandishing aloft Excalibur?

[Raglan]

Thanks for the tips gents. I have gone ahead and ordered a pair. First fitting will be in February. In order to keep this post alive, I will post pictures as soon as the first pair are completed. Feel free to post pictures of your bespoke commissions here too!