The London Lounge

Does anyone know of a shirtmaker who can replicate the magic of the Brooks Brothers collar on a shirt that fits and is well-made?

I'm guessing the NYC firms have an edge here, but would welcome any input.

I don't remember the old Brooks collar.

I have gotten some of their MTM OCBDs and like them but, again, can't attest to the authenticity.

I have my first bespoke BD on order now and have just contacted Mercer & Sons about sourcing some decent OC.

The Brooks Digital Tailoring BDs are not too bad, but getting expensive for the make and fit. I recently found an old MTM (one-off on some sort of promotion) that is actually a bit better. Still, if I can get good fit, wider selection of fabric, and good buttons without missing out on the essence of the rolled BD collar, I'd think about spending a little extra.

Mercer sounds great, but their standard shirts at my collar size will fit like tents. They'll adapt a slightly smaller body and taper it down, but it will be a bit wider than what I can get Brooks to do, and wider still than my best-fitting shirts.

As far as I am concerned, Fred set the standard for wearing BDs. His were from Brooks Bros, and he didn't seem to mind more than a bit of fullness, so why should it bother me?

http://members.isp01.net/hfsears/imAsta ... erta19.jpg

oldog/oldtrix wrote:As far as I am concerned, Fred set the standard for wearing BDs. His were from Brooks Bros, and he didn't seem to mind more than a bit of fullness, so why should it bother me?

http://members.isp01.net/hfsears/imAsta ... erta19.jpg

And they certainly were a better visual complement to his full-cut trousers than the drainpipe flat fronts they were paired with at BB of ye olden days.

Hamilton in Houston (at the store, as opposed to the mail order service) does a fine bespoke OCBD. http://www.hamiltonshirts.com/

Since moving to Houston, I have become a very happy customer. They are MUCH better and more reliable than my previous London-based shirtmaker. I still have and wear several Brooks Brothers button downs; I've never tried to have those made bespoke other than by Hamilton.

Concordia wrote:The Brooks Digital Tailoring BDs are not too bad, but getting expensive for the make and fit. I recently found an old MTM (one-off on some sort of promotion) that is actually a bit better. Still, if I can get good fit, wider selection of fabric, and good buttons without missing out on the essence of the rolled BD collar, I'd think about spending a little extra.

Mercer sounds great, but their standard shirts at my collar size will fit like tents. They'll adapt a slightly smaller body and taper it down, but it will be a bit wider than what I can get Brooks to do, and wider still than my best-fitting shirts.

The only complaint I have w/ Brooks MTM (not digital tailoring) is the price. The fit is good for a sports shirt and the construction is okay.

But for 150 (which is what the MTM OCBDs start at now IIRC) I think you can do better.

Concordia:

I recently asked Geneva to make me an OCBD using their torso/sleeve pattern for me, while copying the collar from an '80s era BB shirt I have. I haven't taken delivery yet. I'll let you know.