The London Lounge

Hello all,

I've been reading the recent conversation in the anonymous section regarding "custom" vs. "bespoke" and would love to hear opinions on these gentlemen, who are based in Atlanta (not exactly the bespoke capital of the world):

http://www.saintfmarc.com/what_is_custom_made.html

Obviously, the site looks rather dingy, and there are typos galore. But, as I linked above, there is discussion of how they are NOT MTM but are rather "custom." (Once spelled "costume," actually.)

This made me think of two things:

1. They are lying. They really are MTM. Or are proud of what they do and consider themsevles bespoke (one the the guys was a master "tailor" of a dept. store in the past).

2. They are bespoke and probably use something like pattern manipulation method...?

There are no pictures anywhere of anyone making a suit.......

I'd love to know what you guys think.

thanks,

chris

There is no way to know without visiting, but they strike me as some version of bespoke. Whether that means they take measurements and draft a pattern or they take measurements and send it out for a pattern to be drafted is another question. The same with the actual manufacturing. Do they actually make the clothes or is it done by someone else? You will have to ask them exactly how it works.

I would suggest that they are NOT bespoke tailors. There are too many areas where they say they offer this or that feature. That is curious because a bespoke tailor will offer all/any and would not single some out. there are also no pictures of clients being fitted/their work room etc which would would expect to be proudly displayed by a bespoke tailor in the US.

My thoughts, without visiting, are that they are a shop front for a manufacturing unit in MTM.

Check out the " shirts" link and scroll down the collar choices

a clear violation of eric glennies patent

hahahahahah.


oh man, that was funny.

OK, well, I emailed the guys....here are the responses:

Gentlemen,

I was recently browsing your website--reading up on the custom suits, and I had a few questions about the process.

1. How many fittings are done in the three-week time span? We have an initial measurement for our new customers and, a try on and then the final fitting.

2. Is the canvas fused or floating? We prefer to use floating canvas. But you do have the option of fused. Floating is more expensive.

3. How are the shoulders constructed? Is there a "house style" on this, or may the buyer dictate? The buyer may dictate according to personal taste, feasibility and quality.

4. Can you please explain the pattern-drafting process in a bit more detail for me? I understand that it is "custom" for each individual, but do you use pattern manipulation, a drafting formula, or rock of eye method? (ie., do you use ANY sort of pre-existing pattern?) We do not use any pre-existing patterns. Once you become a customer we do keep your individual pattern(s) on file and may use that for future suits but all customers have their own patterns.
5. Do you allow clients to tour your workshop and see the drafters, cutters, and tailors at work? Not usually but we can make an exception.
6. Where are your shirts made? Our shirts are designed(patterns/measurements) in house, and the labor(cutting and sewing) is outsourced

Thanks in advance!

--Chris


Now, I'm still iffy on that shirt matter. I don't think they "design" a thing when it comes to shirts. Sure, they make measurements. We all saw those standard pre-existing collar choices. Seems like the typical HK thing.

Perhaps I shall indeed pay them a visit.


Chris