The London Lounge

I am going to have a double-breasted ulster-type tweed coat made up: the model is the coat displayed in the Esky-University styles post and also yesterday on the A Suitable Wardrobe site. The tweed to be used is 21 oz (supposedly, I have not measured it). I wanted to add a lining for warmth but through no fault of my own, there is no way I can have the ventile lining in time to send the fabric back with my in-laws to Bucharest.

So I wondered, are there other fabrics that add warmth that I could find that would be alternatives to the standard viscose linings? We have a "fabric row" here in Philadelphia, so all that I cannot get would be something exotic like Ventile. ANy suggestions?

I have a heavy wool overcoat that is probably made of something a bit over 22 oz and has a heavy satin lining. I could not imagine wearing it with any heavier lining, even on the coldest NY days (though I wear a suit under it). Your fabric is not as heavy as mine, but be careful that you don't make this coat too warm to be useful. Philadelphia is not Flint.

I went to Philadelphia's Fabric Row and got two linings: heavy satin and "sunback," a fabric with satin on one side and something rough on the other, and considerably heavier. I am leaning towards the sunack. Both were extremely cheap, 3 and 6 dollars per yard. Any thought?

Fine wool twill (shiny side exposed ) makes a nice lining for coats for the coldest days.
I have a melton overcoat that has a twill lining. ( It'd be way too warm for NYC- but it's great in Chicago)

Could my "sunback" be the same thing? I guess I would describe it as "twill with a shiny side."

I am having a quilted lining put in my NHT car coat currently under construction. Note the sleeves are not lined with the quilting. I will not be wearing a suit or jacket under it, perhaps a sweater, and i want a very warm coat.

P.S. Ventile's used as an outershell isn't it?

To use ventile as a lining was something I got from this store:

http://www.tweedshop.co.uk/Teviotex_Tweed.html

I agree with you, and to use it as a lining wastes its windproof properties I imagine. Actually, I don't think one can theorize, you just have to do it and see what happens. In any event, because the Ventile people delayed and delayed, there is no way I could have the material on time to give to my in-laws to take back to Romania so I will use this heavy twill material I got on Fabric Row, which was $6/yard and very heavy. I think the Ventile would have been a waste of expensive fabric (not so pricy, but became so due to shipping and wire charges).

I suspect my coat will be quite warm. I hope the winter is cold enough to justify it!

brescd01 wrote:Could my "sunback" be the same thing? I guess I would describe it as "twill with a shiny side."

If it is what I think, then no. I think what you have is a fused lining ( two layers). What I have is wool twill ( not really satiny) but the reverse is the shown side. I don't think it'd be going for $6/yd. either.

Who made your coat?

Also, should I have a martingale added or not to my Ulster?

brescd01 wrote:Who made your coat?

It's a UK made topcoat from the 1950's ( not made for me). I'm having Chris Despos make a winter coat with a shell from Fox and a wool twill lining from H.E.Box. Hopefully get to it this Fall.