The London Lounge

What do you guys think of this overcoat?

I love everything about it, except I'm not sure about the shoulders. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted raincoat, no problem. Raglan sleeves with a double-breasted topcoat/overcoat, I'm not sure. Thoughts?

Anyone seen that fantastic fabric for sale?

Picture can be seen on this thread at Style Forum:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=37759

gefinzi wrote:
Picture can be seen on this thread at Style Forum:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=37759

That image is only available to SF members. As a non-member i cannot see it. Any chance you could post it here?

I have no problem in general with raglan sleeves on overcoats, but i think i've only ever seen SB examples.

bk

Baron Kurtz wrote: That image is only available to SF members. As a non-member i cannot see it. Any chance you could post it here?

bk

Am I the only one that would consider getting a suit (or at least a waistcoat) out of this fabric?

Thanks for posting the picture, JamesT1.

Re: the fabric. A little loud for my taste for suit, but all power to you if you can pull it off. I seem to recall a picture of the Duke in something similar. Maybe in one of Flusser's books? perhaps his had more of a flecked check?

bk

suit might be tough, waistcoat-why not? top coat for sure

My thanks to JamesT1 as well for posting the picture.

There is a picture of the Duke wearing a navy suit with a bold windowpane. I don't recall if it is one of Flusser's books...I have several books on the Duke at home as well as the two volume catalog of the auction for the Duke and Duchess's estate several years ago and I've run across it more than once.

I have many bold windowpane suits but I'm not sure if I would do it with this fabric. I would love to have the overcoat, however.

So back to the original questions, 1) do the raglan sleeves work here or would you prefer a traditional sleeve with the double-breasted front and 2) has anyone seen this fabric for sale?

1. A set shoulder works better on a DB overcoat.

2. There are some fabrics that are similar, but not one exactly the same. I am studying an overcoat fabric for the Cloth Club and would always prefer earth colors for a raglan overcoat in the way one would choose brown or green tweed for a country coat.

I believe this lovely coat was made by Maestro Panico. He seems to enjoy a sterling reputation among the cognoscenti. Any comments or personal experiences?

gigi wrote:I believe this lovely coat was made by Maestro Panico. He seems to enjoy a sterling reputation among the cognoscenti. Any comments or personal experiences?

I have never met him, but have also heard good things from people who have.

I think the coat is interesting, but in my part of the world, the overcoat is a once or twice a year piece, so this probably would not be my choice.

This overcoat fabric is an example:

There are some pretty fundamental "dressing" errors depicted in this slide but the choice of earth colors show better on the left. The man on the right is dressed for the city, complete with brolly and bowler, but with a grey overcoat that is neither city or country.



The fellow on the left has the colors right for the country, but has a conflict running in the patterns of his overcoat and suit. The combination does not work, it blurrs ie there is not a distinct contrast between the two garments patterns.

alden wrote:1. A set shoulder works better on a DB overcoat.

2. There are some fabrics that are similar, but not one exactly the same. I am studying an overcoat fabric for the Cloth Club and would always prefer earth colors for a raglan overcoat in the way one would choose brown or green tweed for a country coat.

It is my impression a set shoulder works better, too. However the longer I look at the coat the more intrigued I am by the raglan shoulders, especially when the fabric is casual rather than formal. I have a nice medium gray wool with beige windowpane and I'm trying to decide how to use it.

I agree the the brown coats in the illustrations are lovely and I would be excited if you had a corresponding fabric made for cloth club.

It is interesting to see how many brown overcoats are seen in the AA illustrations. It is a hard thing to find these days: a dark brown twill of about 600 gms. What are your thoughts?

alden wrote:It is interesting to see how many brown overcoats are seen in the AA illustrations. It is a hard thing to find these days: a dark brown twill of about 600 gms. What are your thoughts?

Pure twill (as in "cavalry") is probably not the venue for dark brown. But a slightly tweedy thing with some other color buried in the diagonal could be nice.

In these illustrations we have three twills, a herringbone and a diamond weave. I think the mottled dark/light brown twill or herringbone (a tweedy thing) is very handsome.