The London Lounge

HappyStroller expressed interest in frock overcoats, I thought the members might be interested in some photos of an original as displayed in Harrisburg, PA in 2006 and 2007.

Here is an overview of the coat. It's quite an elegant garment with a velveteen collar and edge binding. Unlike the regular frocks displayed , it is hemmed all round. The extra-long tails are one clue that this is an overcoat.



Closeup of the collar area, showing left breast pocket, separately cut lapels, cloth covered buttons and keyhole style buttonholes:



Back of the collar and lapel area showing visible padding stitching. Also notice the small bone button, one of three that probably once attached a missing cape. Another clue.



The cuff is non-functional but decorated with edge binding and a strip of flat lace. According to the collector, the black sleeve lining is also a clue that this is an overcoat. Regular frocks of the period typically have off-white sleeve lining, which became striped later in the century.



Tailors here will appreciate this curiousity. Most frocks have two-piece backs, narrowing at the waist and continuing to the hem as foundation for the back pleats and tails. This coat has a one-piece back, with a tail which is joined to the left-hand skirt.



Closeup of the skirt area, showing a separate tailpiece attached to the right skirt, and the usual skirt pleat pocket. Even on black coats, these are usually brown.



Here's the quilted lining of the back, again showing the one-piece construction.



Enjoy,

Jim Ruley

Great pics, Jim.

And such helpful descriptions for each of the pics, too.

Thanks a lot, Jim.

Very nice indeed

If the frock coat is knee-length, where would the extra-long tails of the frock overcoat end, relative to the legs?

What kind of cape are we talking about? As in Batman? Or something behind the head, but rising upwards to frame the head and face? Or a cloak that has a cap which covers the head, which I can imagine Little Red Riding Hood wearing while walking through the woods?

An interesting function, that button, but I think a homburg would look more gentlemanly for this current age.

jruley wrote: ...<snipped>...

Here is an overview of the coat. It's quite an elegant garment with a velveteen collar and edge binding. Unlike the regular frocks displayed , it is hemmed all round. The extra-long tails are one clue that this is an overcoat.

...<snipped>...

Back of the collar and lapel area showing visible padding stitching. Also notice the small bone button, one of three that probably once attached a missing cape. Another clue.

...<snipped>...

Jim Ruley

I had originally thought overcoats or top coats end somewhere halfway down the lower legs, but am beginning to conclude that their hems should be at or be just below the knee.

Too low the hem gives an impression the Great Depression is here. In fact, I believe there's one picture of the Duke of Windsor wearing a herringbone pattern overcoat with its hem almost to the knee during that era nowadays regarded as the classical age of fine gentlemen's dressing.

Here are some fine examples of fine overcoats worn by gentlemen:-

3 images borrowed from our great Etutee's article Vol. II No. II (Feb 06') Nothing but...Tails found in http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=5526





and one image borrowed from our great Manton's article Wedding Attire found in
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=6562



BTW, Manton's article has been moved from LL's Dressing Room section to the Archive of Featured Articles section. If I am not wrong, some images in the article has been altered, adding improvements in explaining the text.

If the frock coat is knee-length, where would the extra-long tails of the frock overcoat end, relative to the legs?

The 1860's fashion plates in Shep's "Civil War Gentlemen" show frock coats ending just above the knee and frock overcoats a little below. Both show a defined waist and a moderately flared skirt at this period.

What kind of cape are we talking about? As in Batman? Or something behind the head, but rising upwards to frame the head and face? Or a cloak that has a cap which covers the head, which I can imagine Little Red Riding Hood wearing while walking through the woods?

Capes also appear in some of thes fashion plates though it is not clear whether or not they are detachable. They are predominately cuff length and moderately full.

Regards,

Jim R.