The London Lounge

I like the clean, minimalist look but do they sag noticeably after a while?

I'm thinking on a 14+ oz tweed jacket that would see some frequent / heavy use Oct - Mar. The pockets would be very much functional - holding keys, an old school iPod mini, etc. Nothing too heavy but definitely used for the intended purpose.

Thanks,
Cantab

in my experience, they don't sag.

MIne always have some mini pockets that are mounted on the body of the jacket, behind the patch to carry what you described. This way, the body of the jacket is carrying the load. There is no stress on the patch itself. No sagging so far.

Good news! I'm trying them on a sportcoat (all three patch), and that was my worry.

Timely post Cantabrigian. I'm considering the same for my next fall jacket, and was also concerned about the sagging issue. Kolecho's advice about the mini-pockets makes sense. I'll probably ask my tailor to do the same.

the mini pocket is like a change pocket within a trouser's front pocket. Measure your cell phone and make sure that the inner pocket is sized to fit. Open patch pockets are absolutely wonderful for the ease of access. DDM

Patch pockets can be fragile and it depends alot on the fabric. A loose weave Shetland patch pocket will bag and sag over time and especially if it is used to carry things. A tightly woven tweed or linen will sag eventually as well and your great grandson will probably be irked by your choice.

So, choose your cloth wisely and try to avoid using the pockets to carry too much. As a rule, I never carrry things in patch pockets.

Alden is dead on with his advice. I avoid putting anything heavier than a piece of paper in a patch pocket unless it is in the "inner pocket" that attaches to the body of the jacket. I'm too new a this to know if a pathology will develop but a thin, light cell phone in that inner pocket does not touch the bottom of the patch and should not really distort it. I have a H&S 11oz west-of-england-style light-gray flannel suit with lower patch pockets and the phone has not caused any "bagging" in its first season of wear.

Alden, what's your view on using patch pockets on the "alden gun check"?

DDM

I prefer patch pockets on casual coats as long as the cloth’s weave and pattern is appropriate. The “Alden Gunclub” tweed is a tightly woven cheviot that will work very well with patches. The pattern, however, is a bit bold. I see it more as a flapped pocket coat. It strikes me as a perfect cloth for a three button front hacking or riding coat.

Thank you for all the comments. I went ahead and ordered open patch pockets (brest welt pocket).

I will definitely take kolecho's suggestion and see if they will put some mini pockets inside.

Technology changes over time, and there's a possibility that pockets made specifically for today's cell phone, iPod mini, etc might not be adequate in a year or two, when they are inevitably replaced.

Would constuction similar to Oxxford's bellows help prevent sagging on open patch pockets?

Oxxford's bellows pocket won't work on a normal patch pocket. You could fake a patch pocket by cutting away the coat front behind the patch and putting in a normal pocket bag (bellows or not). Then the patch wouldn't sag and, in theory, the pocket could be larger than the patch. Great for magicians!! I have never seen that and wonder if it has technical impediments I have not thought of. There are, of course, external bellows pockets. I am feeling especially lazy, so here is a stolen image from an ebay auction, which will probably disappear:

jekarwoski wrote:
Would constuction similar to Oxxford's bellows help prevent sagging on open patch pockets?

I don't see how that would help. Without the top flap, a bellows patch pocket would lie open ( away from the body) at the top. dopey's picture is a good solution. I think the best suggestion would to be to have them fully lined and with "change" or internal pockets attached to the body of the suit.