The London Lounge

The evening dress tailcoat made by a Shanghainese tailor has two small side pockets plus three buttons on each sleeve. But there are no buttons on the rear, unlike the Morning Coat that I have, which has two waist-high buttons on its back. Should an evening dress tailcoat have two waist-high buttons on its back?

Sir, I can't speak for modern dress, but every 19th century tailcoat I have seen has these hip buttons, or the remains of thread where they used to be. They seem to be universal on men's garments with pleats in the skirts. I believe this detail is traditional on modern format tails as well, but others here are better qualified to answer definitely.

Regards,

Jim Ruley

Yes, they are a traditional feature, although no longer fnctional. Their original purpose was to button up the skirts of the tailcoat to keep them out of the way when riding.

Thank you, Sirs, for your helpful replies.

I shall add the two missing buttons. In addition, I will be adding the two corresponding buttonholes to the bottom of the skirt, just in case the Sartorial Police happen to patrol Shanghai city.

Speaking about Sartorial correctness, I was led to believe that there was no room for differences when it came to formal and semi-formal dress. But the strange thing is that the more I participate in the sartorial forums, especially LL, the more I feel there is some freedom to dress differently. I mean it's not like "We'll ostracise him for the screech his fork generated during the banquet" when someone observes that I have two side pockets on my tailcoat or "he will no longer be admitted into our Club" because there are no buttons on the sleeves of my Morning Coat. I just can't image Her Majesty deciding that Bush Jr. will never ever be knighted because he forgot to display his presidential colours and medallions while wearing White Tie.