The London Lounge

I recently received several swatches of cloth for a summer weight solid mid-grey 2 piece suit. So far, I am choosing among the following cloths:

* H&S Crispaire #333201 9/10 oz

* Minnis Fresco #0512 9/10 oz http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardy ... =219766641?

* Smiths Fresco #4046 10/11 oz

* Lessers #30782 from the new 9.5/10 oz book (worsted, not a fresco).

I don't have the ability to post photos of these swatches, but even if I did, it would be hard to detect the differences.

The H&S and Minnis cloths look nearly identical to me. The Minnis feels a touch courser, but barely. Does anyone have a recommendation regarding these two? Which one will hold up better?

I think I like the Smith 4046 a little less since it is a mid-grey with subtle flecks of blue. I am not sure how the cloth will look when it is made up in a suit.

I like the Lessers cloth. As a worsted, it definitely comes across as more refined than the frescos. How do you think this will wear vs. the frescos? Will it be too warm for NYC Summer months?

Other questions regarding the frescos: Do you recommend getting the pants lined (to the knee) or keep them unlined? What type of lining should the jacket take, if any?

Any thoughts and suggestions are very much appreciated.

Thank you.

As it happens, I am getting one of the 9/10 Minnis frescos right now. Mine will be a quarter-lined jacket with unlined trousers. Personally, I like the Minnis frescos better than Crispaire. To me, the Minnis colors are a bit more "old world" and the fresco seems like a more substantial construction. The Smith frescos are much finer; they almost seem like regular worsted. I will surely try one some day, but the heavier weight will likely make it (for me ) a spring rather than summer suit.

I like the new Lesser 9.5/10 book, but the weave is tight. I don't think I could wear that in the dead of summer. For me, it's more April-June, September-early October. But I overheat rather easily.

If the H&S swatch that you are referring to is marked "fresco", then it is identical to Minnis fresco as they both come from the same mill.

Bry -- the H&S and the Minnis you referenced are made by the same mill -- there could be color differences but there should be no construction differences

For better or worse, I decided to order the Minnis 505 as a navy sport coat and the 501 as a trouser -- these are the lightest weight and most refined fresco's Minnis makes

Unlined fresco trousers -- especially from the looser weave 9/10 weight seem tough especially if one takes the jacket off -- in a certain light, these fabrics do really reveal all

Do you think that the Minnis 9/10 oz will be too heavy for NYC Summers, even if the jacket is half or quarter lined? Should I instead go with the Minnis 0501 mid-grey in the 8/9 oz? Will the lighter weight tailor as well as the 9/10 oz?

Manton, which Minnis fresco did you order? the 0521 grey chalkstripe? What do you think of the navy or the lighter blue chalkstripe from the same series?

Thanks.

Bry: Yes, that's the one. I like the blues in the Minnis book, but slightly preferred the solids in the Smith book. Alas, Smith has no patterns at this time (in fresco, at least).

I certainly intend to wear it in the worst summer heat. We shall see how that goes. Lesser 8/9 is marvelous in bad weather. This is slightly heavier, but quite a bit more porous.

Alden got a couple of Minnis 8/9s for Sicily and rates them highly.

Bry - I've got a suit made of the Minnis 9/10 that works well for the NY summer. The cloth is the H&S 33200 which is the shade one lighter than you are considering. Ed Deboise from Steed made the suit with unlined trousers and an emerzine lining for the jacket. I've not noticed much trouble with the lining and it has the benefit of absorbing sweat rather than the jacket cloth.

DDM