The whys and wherefores of tweed

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

alden
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:15 pm

There are probably many readers of the LL living in grey urban jungles who wonder the why and wherefores of the tweeds we admire so much, their colors and the dressing culture they represent.

Come with me on a visit to Scotland, to Drumlanrig at the Queensbury Estate in Dunfries.

Have you ever wondered why green and brown tweeds are complimented with red windows and checks?

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Do you know how to recognize Lovat green when you see it?

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Is there something about orange, rust and reds that escape you after seeing these?

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In France one is taught that browns and blues don’t go together. Do you see why that rule does not apply in Scotland?

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Do you see why light grays are sometimes associated with greens, browns and blues?

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Do you understand better now?

Cheers
dopey
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:27 pm

There is a wonderful vignette in the Johnston's Estate Tweed book that describes how a particular estate tweed was chosen. The man of the house stood on the balcony of his home and sent a bunch of his employees walking away from the house and up the hill, each with a differently patterned bolt of cloth on his shoulders. The cloth that served as the best camouflage and first disappeared from view on the hillside was chosen as the right tweed for that estate.

Your photo essay is the perfect illustration of why that made sense.
manton
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 3:37 pm

alden wrote: In France one is taught that browns and blues don’t go together. Do you see why that rule does not apply in Scotland?
Ah, another reason to distrust the French.
Concordia
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 4:42 pm

Context is everything. I have a jacket made from one of the Johnston's book that spends much of its time looking like a sedate tan check. In the wrong lighting, however, or in the wrong setting, I see nothing but grass stains.
smoothjazzone
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:12 pm

I guess we need to design a grey and black tweed for the asphalt jungle of Manhattan! Or maybe the reverse chalk stripe will be enough.
Concordia
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:21 pm

smoothjazzone wrote:I guess we need to design a grey and black tweed for the asphalt jungle of Manhattan! Or maybe the reverse chalk stripe will be enough.
You refer, I think, to the Gary Cooper tweed!
dopey
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:00 pm

smoothjazzone wrote:I guess we need to design a grey and black tweed for the asphalt jungle of Manhattan! Or maybe the reverse chalk stripe will be enough.
It's been done. Can't say I am enamored with the result. Plus it doesn't account for the rats.

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kirsch
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:00 pm

Ah, another reason to distrust the French.

hahaha! NIce one, Manton.
Chris Rimby
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 6:55 pm

Great post alden thanks!
Cantabrigian
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:34 pm

Great idea for a topic (though I have to say my desire to acquire tweed jackets already far exceeded the occasions/excuses I have to wear them). Beautiful photos of the Scotish countryside.
whittaker
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 7:50 pm

A few weeks ago it was almost Spring in London. Daffodils, snowdrops and bare legged women. Then last week, a cold snap bit hard. One week 19 degrees, a week later -2 degrees.

Whilst I heard plenty of grumbling, I rejoice at getting another few weeks wear of my beloved tweeds.
bry2000
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:01 pm

Michael,

If it is not too much trouble, can you identify the different swatches that you have posted.

Thank you.
smoothjazzone
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Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:17 am

Bry:

The first four are samples from the now sadly defunct Hunters of Brora and were made available by North Highland Tweed Company which my understanding is no longer operating either.
countdemoney
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Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:44 am

Great post, geat pictures. Thank you for posting them.

Tweeds make me all weak in a way that no other fabric can.
alden
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Sun Mar 25, 2007 8:50 am

Bry,

Yes, as Smoothjazz has correctly indicated, the first group of photos are of the legendary Brora tweed. The last remaining bits of this tweed was made available to LL members very early on via NHTC. I hope you guys took full advantage of the offer because this quality of tweed no longer exists, anywhere. I purchased for seven coat lengths and feel a proper fool...for not buying much much more!

Cheers

Michael
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