The London Lounge

New bespoke shoes from Tony & Dean. Ordered at the same time as a pair of MTOs, which I still don't have. Shouldn't bespoke take longer? Not that I'm complaining!

Quarter brogues, in kid suede. Color: "Fox", their slightly reddish mid-brown.



The kid suede is very soft, with a very fine nap. This is the perfect suede for a town shoe. It is only available bespoke. Tony says the factory machines would chew it up. Note also the contrast stitching. The seams were sewn with tan thread. It gives the shoes just a touch of sparkle.







Note the lack of a seam at the upper heel. Tony says he prefers this, and has made it something of a G&G house style.



A true fiddle back waist, with a noticable straight ridge:





Note as well that the sole is 5/16 until it narrows to the waist. This was Tony's idea. He says it accentuates the waist; I have to agree. Note also the effeminate canted heel. I'm comfortable with who I am.



Oh, and not that any serious person cares about such things, but ... these trees are far better than the old Green trees, and than the Cleverley trees. They give the Lobb Paris trees a run for the money.

In my opinion, this is a leap forward from the quality of the make from the Green days. I am tempted to say it is the best waist treatment I have ever seen. It is quite a bit different than the LP waist, more ostentatiously beautiful.

Sadly, the weather will be wet through the rest of the week, and I can't wear them.

WOW manton...l say Wow! Wonderful shoes. Amazing looking soles. You are very lucky to have access to such good cordwainers. Enjoy and wear in good health old boy.

manton wrote: these trees are far better than the old Green trees, and than the Cleverley trees.

Why would you say the trees are better Manton?

Regards.

Wow...seriously....wow. That's one of the nicest pair of shoes I've ever seen. The waist could be displayed in an artisan museum.

Congratulations!

Santoni Man wrote:Why would you say the trees are better Manton?

Better wood, nicer finish, metal (as opposed to plastic) hinge, and it fits the shoe more precisely. Just like the Lobb Paris trees, it is an almost exact match to the shape of the last.

Note also that the hinge is mounted from the bottom, not the top. A nice touch. Paul Davies (the London Shoemaker) does that as well, although he told me he had trouble implementing that in his earliest versions. I like the drilled out tree, although I have seen an even nicer version where the top looks normal but the bottom is completely hollowed out (again, Davies).

My recollection is that I really liked your Lobb Paris ones because of the treatment of the back piece. It is nicer than either the Davies or the new G&G version.

BTW: I was sidetracked by the discussion of the trees and forgot to mention that those shoes are beautiful. Great shape and great detailing. I guess it is too early to tell, but I would like to know what you think of the sole thickness. It is thicker than I have gotten for dressy shoes but I bet it is more comfortable than 1/4 inch and looks perfect for suede. Would you have gotten the same for calf?

Manton, I was just in London and had a chance to meet with Edwin DeBoise below #12 Saville Row where Tony has a display. The MTO shoes look good, your shoes are NICE. I'm not sure I can can put it better.

DDM

Having not worn the soles, I can't comment on the comfort. They are only 1/16 thicker than a quarter sole. It's noticable if you are into shoes, but not so glaring that it makes the shoes look rustic.

My Lobb Paris soles are actually 3/16, but they are a completely different thing. The leather is hammered to an unbelievable density unlike on any other shoes I have ever seen. I'm sure there must be more layers to it than the sole from another maker, but I could not say how many. Needless to say, they take a lot longer to wear through and stand up to pavement better.

OK, wear them in the office for a couple of days to make nice and then take 'em out for a celabratory glass of champagne otherwise the shoe-porn police might come and take them. DDM

Beautiful, Manton. What wonderful shoes. How delicate is that kid suede?

DD MacDonald wrote:Manton, I was just in London and had a chance to meet with Edwin DeBoise below #12 Saville Row where Tony has a display. The MTO shoes look good, your shoes are NICE. I'm not sure I can can put it better.

DDM

Yes, I saw them on Tuesday afternoon, while visiting Mr. DeBoise. The display was very impressive. I'm thankful Tony wasn't present. I may have been too tempted to start a new project.

whittaker wrote:
Yes, I saw them on Tuesday afternoon, while visiting Mr. DeBoise. The display was very impressive. I'm thankful Tony wasn't present. I may have been too tempted to start a new project.

I'd have been weak too.
DDM

whittaker wrote: How delicate is that kid suede?

Certainly feels delicate to the touch. I have not test driven them yet. I fear I will have to be very careful.

Please test drive them and post the results. Take lots of pictures of the sole before going out

You should have ordered two pair--one for wear, and one for purely display; absolutely stunning. I'd love to see some pics of them on your feet to really get the full effect.

koji

Every time l look at the soles (about the 20th time in two days) l am completely blown away. Totally amazing. l'll never look at the soles of highend ltalian RTW in the same way ever again. Truely.

l hope Manton doesn't seriously intend to wear such objects of beauty.

(side comment to myself). l wish l knew where Manton lived.