The London Lounge

Please excuse my ignorance but I am making my first foray into bespoke suits and decided to get a 3-piece. I realised that I have very little experience with waistcoats and so don't really know what to ask for.

Are waistcoats ever made entirely of the suit cloth (i.e. without a silk/satin back)? What are the rules on w/coat backs generally?

Presumably a fastening strap on the back is a bit gauche on bespoke? Or is it as acceptable as a Daks belt on trousers?

To what extent is the idle button desirable if it is not otherwise in my tailor's inclination to make the w/coat in this way?

Should I expect canvas in the w/coat? Should I ask for it?

Is three pockets (i.e. two regular pockets and a ticket/fob pocket?) acceptable?

Are there any other points to watch out for?

Sammyo77 wrote:Please excuse my ignorance but I am making my first foray into bespoke suits and decided to get a 3-piece. I realised that I have very little experience with waistcoats and so don't really know what to ask for.

1. Are waistcoats ever made entirely of the suit cloth (i.e. without a silk/satin back)? What are the rules on w/coat backs generally?

2. Presumably a fastening strap on the back is a bit gauche on bespoke? Or is it as acceptable as a Daks belt on trousers?

3. To what extent is the idle button desirable if it is not otherwise in my tailor's inclination to make the w/coat in this way?

4. Should I expect canvas in the w/coat? Should I ask for it?

5. Is three pockets (i.e. two regular pockets and a ticket/fob pocket?) acceptable?

Are there any other points to watch out for?

I numbered your questions above for convenience. Answers, such as they are, follow:

1. On occasion, odd waistcoats meant for country use have self-cloth backs. I have never seen this on a waistcoat for a suit, nor would I ever want one. I would expect any knowledgeable tailor to strongly discourage your getting a waistcoat with a cloth back for a suit as it is not done and likely uncomfortable. That doesn't mean you can't insist if you want.

2. Perfectly acceptable - typical, I think.

3. Normal waistcoats have the idle button by convention. Nothing awful would happen if you leave it off, but I would expend at least some effort on convincing your tailor it should be there. I don't know why he would balk, and it is your waistcoat. Postboy waistcoats do away with the idle button - at least mine does.

4. I think you should expect it, but I am not sure I understand why it is used, so I will punt on this one. If you trust your tailor on construction technique then trust your tailor.

5. I have never seen this, and while it would be unusual, I am not sure it would look bad. Not for me, though. Decide how much you want or are willing to accept looking a bit different. If you do this, all three should be flap, not welt pockets.

Thanks. I had a second visit today to finalise measurements and details and, though I went before I read this, came to roughly the same conclusions. My tailor (used to Australians who tend to be conservative though not necessarily traditional dressers - think ubiquitous white shirts) was only vaguely familiar with the idle button though willing to have a go. If anyone had a photo I could use to show him what I mean that would be terrific. I have searched through the Lounge but couldn't find anything.

He reassured me on construction and everything else was fine too. I went with 4 pockets rather than 3 in the end as he was more comfortable with that and I had pushed an awful lot of points by the time we finished up.