The London Lounge

I was reading some on Mahon's website and was wondering, what IS the big deal with working buttonholes on suit sleeves? I realize the past use, but why do so many folks demand them now?

Interesting idea, that is no buttons. No non-functioning pocket squares, no non-functioning corresponding hidden button for lapel buttonhole, no non-functioning lapel buttonhole, no non-functioning boutonniere loop holder behind buttonhole lapel, no non=functioning lapel, no non-functioning collar, no non-functioning jacket skirt below waistband, no non-functioning breast pocket, no non-functioning waist pockets, no non-functioning pcoket flaps, no non-functioning fabric patterns, no non-functioning fabric colours, no non-functioning padding, no non-functioning canvas, no non-functioning cuffs, no non-functioning jacket length considerations, etc. Result: A much, much cheaper suit for $50, instead of $5,000, say.

kirsch wrote: I realize the past use, but why do so many folks demand them now?

I suspect it has to do with nothing more than being able to prove that you can unbutton your sleeves...

For me, they give me something to fiddle with when I am sitting in French class.

If you're having a jacket made, and if it's important to be able to open your sleeves, by way of buttons, then I can understand the resoning for 'real' buttonholes. On ready-to-wear, they can create problems, if a sleeve needs to be shortened.

Probably it signifies some private indulgence. Private in the sense that once you have buttonholes drilled in your sleeves, the jacket's usefulness to almost everyone else vanishes to zero.

Not that people normally stop one in the street asking to borrow one's suit for an upcoming occasion, but this practice places limits for those who might otherwise worry. Rather like a sized bow tie: someone approaches you for a loan before a concert or dance, and the only response in most cases is "I'm sorry, but I don't think you're my size."

Then there are all those non-functional buttons in both SB and DB jackets, especially the latter, plus superfluous extension of the right side of a DB under the left side of the DB. No need to have lapel rolls.

Back to sleeve buttons. Partly to extract more value out of the tailor, I feel the need to ask him to sew some thing as unnecessary as functionable sleeve buttons. On the other hand, a request for functionable kissing sleeve buttons tests the professionalism of the tailor; if he fails to do it properly or forgets to do it, that is the last commission for him in my quest for a better tailor.

It's a happy anachronism that you can embrace or eschew.

DDM

Pre-existing comprehensive discussion on the matter can be found here ->
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... eons+cuffs

It seems to have become an affectation in the USA. AAAC and Style Forum seem to sporadically get enquiries about which alteration tailor will convert the button holes of an RTW suit.

Traditionally they were associated with Surgeons and Farmers and were entirely a preserve of bespoke suits. A and S preferring 2 sham/2 working, others 4 working.

It really should be left there and the American affectation remaining namely that, ie mutton trying to be dressed as lamb - and failing.

I'm very thankful to have them if I happen to be playing pieces that require a lot of cross-hand exchanges (like Scarlatti!)

koji