The London Lounge

I’ve been working on a magazine article about cloth recently, and did a lot of research for the piece. Much of what I learned won’t make it into the finished piece, as it is not strictly germane. But I thought members might find it interesting to learn a little about “finishing”, a word we use a lot that we’ve never really attempted to define.

If “finishing” could be summed up in one phrase it would be: What happens to the cloth after it is woven.

There are a number of steps. First and foremost, the cloth must be washed. The weavers in the North of England wax poetic about the quality of the water there, in the streams and rivers. They say nothing else can compare. Some try to match it with chemicals – or worse, try to cover up inferior yarn with chemicals, or try to shorten the finishing process and cut corners with chemicals. The old world weavers scoff at this.

At a minimum the cloth is washed to get dirt and impurities out, and any grime and oil from the machines. One of the good things about the pure spring water is it leaves the natural oils on the wool largely intact. Some cloths are scoured. That is, they are washed by hand with soap and water and scrubbed against a washboard. This is necessary for the rougher stuff, or anything that comes off the loom uncommonly dirty.

Then the cloth is dried. This used to be done naturally, in the air, but machines can do it now more quickly without harming the cloth.

If the cloth is to have a smooth finish, it is then thoroughly brushed. The purpose of this step is to bring up any loose fibers. These are likely to cause pilling of they are left on the cloth. Instead, they are made to stick up. Then the cloth is clear cut. That is, it is run through a machine that acts much like a lawnmower. Very sharp blades shave off all those stray fibers. Cloth described as “unfinished worsteds” usually have skipped this step, or the blades are set not to cut the nap so closely.

Then, to make the cloth smooth and uniform, it is placed in a sealed container and jets of steam are blown through. This is how worsteds achieve their fine sheen – sheen, not shine. If a cloth shines, that is an indication that a corner has been cut, and chemicals or something has replaced important steps. This step also, by the way, helps to shrink the cloth. Most weavers think that is all the shrinkage cloth needs. Tailors, on the other hand, not wanting to take any risks, still hold to the practice of sponging.

Finally, the cloth is laid out as flat and taut as possible and carefully pressed with irons quite a bit hotter than a tailor’s iron.

Now, this process differs for flannels. Flannels – whether woolen or worsted – are woven more loosely. After the cloth is washed and scoured, it is “milled.” This involves forcing the cloth through a very narrow aperture under high pressure with steam. The many stray fibers then lock into place somewhat randomly. This gives the cloth its characteristic “mottled” and uneven color. Plus, it accounts for why it’s hard – sometimes impossible – to see the regular lines of the underlying weave.

Depending on how smooth the final cloth is supposed to be, the cloth can then be cut (but never “clear cut” so as to be dead smooth) in the lawnmower like machine, and the milling process is repeated on a different setting. Milling in this case replaces the steam infusion in the sealed container, typical for worsteds.

Flannels are typically not pressed at the mill, because that caliber of pressing would flatten the nap. That is desirable on a clear cut worsted, but not on a flannel.

I hope I have gotten all this right. If I haven’t, blame me, not the people I interviewed.

Oh, I so enjoyed this, Manton! Very much. I have always been mystified by fabrics, by weaves, by texture. I have been fortunate to be able to hold and touch Abraham and Gandini fabrics, and to study them up close. What a thrill! They are as beautiful 'inside,' as on the 'outside.'
About sponging: my grandmother used to take her silk fabric, place it inside the clothes dryer on air fluff, and allow the silk to be saturated by a damp sponge. Was this, to make the silk, washable? I believe that was the case. Why do tailors, still depend on sponging?

Manton great post - please let us know which magazine you artical will be published in, i for 1 would go and get a copy, thanks for a great post!

And now I finally know why the quality of water is important to the fabric's overall quality - thank you.

That was an extremely interesting and well informed article. A pleasure to read, and a joy to feel somewhat more educated following it's reading.

Thank you Manton.

Looking forward to the next installment

Very informative and much appreciated.

Marabunta wrote:Was this, to make the silk, washable? I believe that was the case. Why do tailors, still depend on sponging?

I don't know about silk, specifically, but tailors sponge wool to be absolutely sure that the cloth has shrunk as much as it is ever going to shrink. If it shrinks after is is cut, that is obviously a huge problem.

Many times I have seen bolts of cloth in a tailors shop with tags attached that say "Pre-sponged, pre-shrunk, ready for the needle" or some such. Every tailor I know nonetheless sponges the cloth himself anyway. Paranoia? Or prudent caution?

Thank you! Then there was Vionnet, who used to STRETCH her fabrics, before cutting into them! I think the desired fit and presentation, is what's at stake, here.

Thanks, Manton, for another wonderful write-up again.

Flannels and cashmeres seem similar to me. Perhaps the process of production is similar, even though the former is vegetarian material while the latter is animal material?

Intrigued by the title The Man In The Grey Flannel Suit (I have to confess I have no idea what its storyline is about), I am thinking of wearing a grey flannel suit. But if I can (afford to), is a grey cashmere suit better?

manton wrote: ...<snip>...
Now, this process differs for flannels. Flannels – whether woolen or worsted – are woven more loosely. After the cloth is washed and scoured, it is “milled.” This involves forcing the cloth through a very narrow aperture under high pressure with steam. The many stray fibers then lock into place somewhat randomly. This gives the cloth its characteristic “mottled” and uneven color. Plus, it accounts for why it’s hard – sometimes impossible – to see the regular lines of the underlying weave.

Depending on how smooth the final cloth is supposed to be, the cloth can then be cut (but never “clear cut” so as to be dead smooth) in the lawnmower like machine, and the milling process is repeated on a different setting. Milling in this case replaces the steam infusion in the sealed container, typical for worsteds.

Flannels are typically not pressed at the mill, because that caliber of pressing would flatten the nap. That is desirable on a clear cut worsted, but not on a flannel.
...<snip>...

It is my understanding that flannel is made from wool, and so would not class as 'vegetarian' - although no doubt the sheep which provide the wool would classify as such.

My feeling is that cashmere is over-rated for suitings; sure, it's luxurious, but it doesn't wear well. It's the type of thing one might use in a suit for going to the opera etc, rather than day-to-day wear. I'd prefer a woolen flannel under most circumstances.

Agree on the cashmere suit. 'Better,' is relative. While I'm nuts for cashmere coats, cashmere blazers, cashmere scarves and jackets, I don't have luck with cashmere trousers.

So it's the pants which give problems, is it? And I was thinking of making a cashmere dinner jacket plus stripe trousers.

How about the Morning Coat used with striped slacks(?)?

Marabunta wrote:Agree on the cashmere suit. 'Better,' is relative. While I'm nuts for cashmere coats, cashmere blazers, cashmere scarves and jackets, I don't have luck with cashmere trousers.

I really have no use for cashmere suitings. I know they are big now in the upper end of the RTW market. For instance, all of Kiton's "tropical" suits are now 100% worsted cashmere. They swear the stuff is durable, but give me a fresco or a Lesser or Minnis tropical any day.

Cashmere v. flannel, ditto, I will take a sturdy woolen flannel any day. For a winter stroller or morning coat, that's another matter. Since these are worn much more rarely, and presumably are never subject to the same stresses and wear, finer fabric is less of a risk.

For flannel, I think that cashmere is only one part of the story. If I correctly remember, Fox flannel uses some if not all lambswool in one of their lines and H&S have a flannel with a touch of mink (and no, a picture of Doris Day does not come with each meter).

I've not had any of these made up, do any members have any experience with these?

DDM