Blue-grey inspiration

[Tampan]

Hi LLers,

I've now learned too much, and my expectations need a sanity check. I am looking for inspiration for a suit that would work for interviews. But I'm also interested in blue-grey, DB and peaked lapels. I need to prioritize my desires.

Explanations of colour suggest that my "summer" complexion would be well-served by blue-grey rather than blue, and in any case, it would then match my eyes. I cannot find many examples of a grey that tends to blue - I imagine there's a shade that is not immediately either, yet doesn't look like "navy covered in dust". Probably rather dark, too, for the authority of the jobs I seek. Does this colour exist? I can't find it on fabric websites. It might be something like the picture below, ignoring the topcoat (I have a similar complexion, but not those shoulders). Cloth will be fairly light (living in Southeast Asia) but otherwise any cloth and pattern that "means business".



I also have no DB suits, nor peaked lapels. It's been a long time since I last changed jobs. In various places around the web I see it suggested that DB is not ideal for interviews. But typically those posts relate to someone's first suit, at the early stages of a career. I don't know if it applies to me. If I'm not being silly to consider a DB, what button configuration is sleek and corporate?

Looking forward to any advice,
Tampan
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[Concordia]

That looks like RAF blue, one of my favorite shades of anything. Holland & Sherry does that in a luxury gabardine (part of their Summer 2006 collection: http://www.hollandandsherry.com/collect ... hs156.html ).

There is a fresco in the new Smiths lineup that I've ordered in DB-- looks pretty close to this picture.

Smith Connoisseur line (11oz or so) has a pick & pick that may be on the heavy end of what you need, but is a really nice blue a few shades lighter than navy.

[Tampan]

Thank you Concordia!

I now have a much better idea of what I'm looking for. Googling also found much documentation of your appreciation for RAF Blue. I have tended to avoid blue in the past, and missed out on the subtleties. "Airforce Blue" seems to be a "few shades lighter than navy" colour. I am now much better informed for my tailor visit next week.

Does anyone have an opinion on the type of first impression made by a DB suit with peak lapels? Could it be staid / pompous / old / fashion-forward / too casual / or the opposite of these? I seems that good waist suppression and keeping it short would help keep it dynamic. I'm not so sure about the button configuration.

Regards,
Tampan

[Collarmelton]

Tampan:

Smith's Fresco No. 4034 (11/12oz) is a good RAF blue.

[RWS]

My own thought (not having interviewed for many positions and having conducted even fewer interviews of others) is that a double-breasted suit might look a bit flashy on a very young man but -- if cut well from good cloth -- more than appropriate on anyone in his mid-thirties or older. I do tend to think that a roll-to-one button stance may be a bit too "avant" for some employers, but a six-button, roll-to-two shouldn't reflect poorly on any applicant.

Of course, one's bearing is more remarkable than one's dress. As what you wear can strongly affect how you carry yourself, simply wear to the interview what makes you feel most comfortable and confident.

[Tampan]

Thank you RWS and Collarmelton!

That all makes sense. My DB project will be an opportunity for me to act my age, and your esteemed advice even helps me to convince my wife that I should pursue a very nice cloth. I don't know if my tailor has those specific fabrics in stock or samples, however he has a "cloth agent" in Europe who should be able to help out. This project will be fun for a little bit longer (the job interviews are later in the year). My bearing should also be in great shape by then!

Cheers,
Tampan

[Tampan]

Postscript to this topic - my blue-grey (airforce blue, or a darker RAF blue) suit is complete. The colour blends into its surroundings, and depending on lighting and other colours around me can be bluish, medium grey, dark grey or navy. It contains some mohair, so sometimes it seems to have subtle vertical stripes, although the texture runs diagonal. It is impossible to capture half of this in a photo, and its appearance will vary with the saturation settings on your monitor.



My tailor cut it particularly slim, it's definitely not for playing volleyball. IThe result seems subtle enough to wear at interviews, yet interesting enough to give me the inner smug feeling of having a nice suit.

Tampan

(cloth is Canonico Barberis, 260g/m2 wool w/10% mohair, I forget the swatch no.)

[manton]

From the picture, that looks significantly darker than air force blue. I would call it gunmetal blue-gray.

[edhayes]

when you go to an interview, you don't want to sit there with all your buttons done, make sure you gracefully undo them before you sit down, you could just undo the outer button and leave the button on the inside done-that means you would good sitting down and standing up.

be careful with the tie-nothing too light,

[Tampan]

I agree Manton, I thought "gunmetal" too when I saw my suit. But the term seems to imply shiny to some parts of the media. Under brighter lights it is, well, brighter. Here's a contrast with some medium-dark grey pants:



To Ed - great idea! I've tried it out - having just the outside button undone doesn't change the ergonomics of sitting in a tight suit, but it does turn out to be much more pleasing to the eye, not to have so much cloth bundled into the crook of my lap. And I've even found a more "UCBD" tie, in line with Manton's treatise (diatribe?) on another forum.

Thanks guys!