The London Lounge

We have been discussing the LL Limited edition Windsor shoe in the Limited Editions forum and it caused me to think about the stock shoe lasts that have the best lines.

Three lasts from EG come to mind. The 88 last in a "C" fitting is probably the best looking RTW shoe I have seen. Tied for second place in the EG line would be the 808 in a "D" fitting and the 202 in a "C" fitting. The 202 in a C is particularly fine.

What are your choices?

For me, without a doubt it, is the EG 707 in C. Long, elegant, flat on top, with a higher side wall. It is the last on which Flusser's RTW are made. I've been told that he worked with the late John Hlustik on designing it. Flusser's pictures are copyrighted, but take a look at www.alanflussercustom.com

I picked up a few pair when he had his shop at Saks, and when he left Saks, the store sold them at a very deep discount during one of its sales, so I picked-up all that were available in my size.

Second is EG's 404, which they no longer make.

I have a few of the 202 and also the 88, as that was the one used quite often by Wildsmith back when I first discovered good shoes.

Sadly, I have no choice on the width and so find no value in expressing opinions about that.

I may be in the minority but I have uniformly found all EG shoes to be incredibly uncomfortable including these special edition shoes (for which EG made a "MTM" last especially for me in a 11.5A fitting). My favorite EG last (visually speaking) is the 89 (the last used by Purple Label).

The best RTW last I have seen is the Vass F-last (the "Florence" last designed by Roberto Ugolini). I consider the round-toe F-last to be superior to all the EG, Lobb and other RTW lasts out there. In fact, Ugolini is #1 on my "bespoke shoemakers I would most like to try list."

smoothjazzone wrote:I may be in the minority but I have uniformly found all EG shoes to be incredibly uncomfortable including these special edition shoes...

I believe "comfortable shoes" are in a different thread.

And I can take associate membership in that minority. The MTO shoes I've bought direct from EG do technically fit, but I don't much care for how they do. Shoes to wear with abandon, in other words.

I vote for the 808, though more because of the fit and comfort of thusly lasted shoes rather than because of an aesthetic comparison.

I started in the 606 and in the process of dialing in the fit of the shoes to my feet came across the 808 which is not so deep vertically and favors my narrow foot. In a D width with some fitting across the span to widen it a touch, the 808 is extremely comortable.

I have a pair of two eylet derbys, what Green's calls Holborn, which are perhaps the most comfortable shoes that I own, though a pair of suede Ladbrokes fit equally as well but haven't yet found their way into heavy rotation.

My understanding from the shop is that the 808 and 888 differ in that the 808 has a less extreme toe shape.

DDM

alden wrote: Three lasts from EG come to mind. The 88 last in a "C" fitting is probably the best looking RTW shoe I have seen. Tied for second place in the EG line would be the 808 in a "D" fitting and the 202 in a "C" fitting. The 202 in a C is particularly fine.

Did you know if the 88 last is still available via Edward Greens MTO program?

Thanks in advance.
-Daniel

alden wrote:We have been discussing the LL Limited edition Windsor shoe in the Limited Editions forum and it caused me to think about the stock shoe lasts that have the best lines.

Three lasts from EG come to mind. The 88 last in a "C" fitting is probably the best looking RTW shoe I have seen. Tied for second place in the EG line would be the 808 in a "D" fitting and the 202 in a "C" fitting. The 202 in a C is particularly fine.

What are your choices?

The 888 followed by the 82 are my choices. Michael, I note in particular that you specify narrow widths - am I to understand that you deliberately go up a half or a full size in order to fit the narrowness you suggest? I had asked Susie about this when I last bought at a trunkshow and she strongly cautioned against this - I followed her advice and stuck to my usual size and while the shoes fit well and don't appear too large (8.5E) they certainly lack the sleekness that the Windsor example has.

The Windsor shoe in the photo is an 888 in a 11.5D (UK). When it comes to EGs shoes, I could wear a 11E, 11.5D or 12C depending on the last shape. The 202, 32, 606 and 88 are short lasts, so I prefer to go longer and narrower. The 808, 888 and 82 are longer lasts, so I can go shorter.

The manufacturers will always default you to the E last in Europe because that is the size they stock. The others have to be made up.

M Alden

I few weeks ago, I got myself on eBay a pair of EG ‘Malvern’ (full brogue) in size 9 C, last 202.

It’s kind of a revelation. Until now, I’ve gone for EG 8 ½ D, and even then, unless it’s a special order, I have to get them in the sale. Standard fitting in Europe is E (I can wear EG 8 E, but it’s a bit short in the toe.)

On the old EG catalogue, I’ve seen the 88 last for the first time, looking very nice indeed (obviously Alden has taste):



I know the 88 was revised into the 808 (which I know) and in recent years into 888. Maybe Alden (or anyone else knows about the differences. Do you think, if 202, 9 C fits well, 88 in 9 C will fit equally well? If I were to go for that last, I would have to order it untried, just hoping for the best.

Rolf

Maybe Alden (or anyone else knows about the differences. Do you think, if 202, 9 C fits well, 88 in 9 C will fit equally well?

The 202, 88, 33 and 32 fit my foot the same. The 88 in 12C is something to behold. Here is a picture of an EG Berkeley in 12C from 1988



The "great 88" was the only last John H wore, so I probably learned a bit from the Master from Northampton.



Cheers

Swann: unless their policy has changed, they will make shoes from any last, even ones they have not used in years.

To name some others: I like the 82 quite a bit, and the old 22.

The Forrest last from Carmina makes a double soled blucher boot look, if not sleek, at least nicely proportioned. From the pics, it seems that Rain and Robert are terrific, but I have not seen them in person.

I have high hopes for the new G&G lasts. All of them look very good, though I was partial to the "soft" versions.

The Forrest last from Carmina makes a double soled blucher boot look, if not sleek, at least nicely proportioned. From the pics, it seems that Rain and Robert are terrific, but I have not seen them in person.

The "Rain" last by Carmina was used in the LL's second Limited edition Spanish chukka boot in cordovan leather. Those who participated in the offering might be able to speak about the last, onethat has been very well received in Europe. I suspect it is winging its way Stateside these days.

Swann: EG will make shoes on the 88 as long as they have the last in your size. They do not have all the sizes available. Its a bit of a shame. I crawled aroung the room where they kept the lasts looking for B and C lasts, but they were not easy to find. I hope when they moved the factory, they kept the lasts. I may give them a call and see what's available these days. Might be a good time to do an LL Limited on the 88.

The 202 in 12C is incredible. I wear 11.5 D, and could easily wear 12 C -- if only I could find it!

manton wrote: I wear 11.5 D, and could easily wear 12 C -- if only I could find it!

Alden might have a few pairs. Just "make him an offer, he will not refuse."