Richard Anderson, Rubinacci--any thoughts?

[doccol91]

I have been living in London for the past year and have been thinking about getting a suit made by someone other than my usual tailor, Vincent Nicolosi. Main reason for this, is I don't want to wait six months for a new suit.

Walking around town, and specifically, up and down the row, I have kind of narrowed it down to two--Richard Anderson and Rubinacci. Both are roughly the same price.

I know that they have very different styles, which is kind of why I am in a quandary. After a year in London, and I never thought I would say this, I am starting to appreciate the more upright stance to British clothing. Rubinacci makes a lovely suit, but it is kind of similar to what I get from Nicolosi and a lot more expensive. Also, I am a little worried about the fittings, given that the suit is made in Italy.

Finally, I am thinking about getting a double-breasted, which I have not had in over 15 years.

Any thoughts on Richard Anderson, Rubinacci, double-breasted, etc?

Any comments are appreciated.

[iammatt]

Just remember that RA prices with VAT excluded and MR with VAT included, so the prices are not as similar as you may think at first glance.

[doccol91]

so basically, Anderson is more expensive than Rubinacci? That's a clincher

[manton]

Richard Anderson didn't do it for me personally, but I loved Rubinacci. I think, in my case, it is more of a spring/summer aesthetic. At this point, I wouldn't go to them for a winter three piece.

Strangely, for an ex-Huntsman guy, I found RA's coat a bit slouchy, and the button point much too low. Not slouchy in a good way (like A&S), just sort of loose and "off." This is based on only a few visits to the shop, you understand.

[luk-cha]

i would also go with Rubinacci - from what i have seen from Iammatt's post and other sources from the intenet their suit are something that i would really like to have! RA suit are ok but not what i would call show stopper's i would perfer Spencer Hart.

you could always do a sports coat in each and then take it from there!

[edhayes]

I use Nicolosi a lot, I like Steven Htichcock there-have you seen him?

[uppercase]

If I went with Rubinacci London I would ask to have the suit cut and made in their Naples sartoria.

Also, I would expect that Mariano personally do my fittings in London.

This will increase your chances of success somewhat although honestly I would really want the cutter to see me, take my measure and be available on the premises for all fittings.

This is not available in Rubincacci London nor in Rome; Rubinacci only has full tailoring staff in his sartoria in Milan and Naples.

Also, note Manton's comment above regarding the sensibility of a Rubinacci suit as a Spring/Summer aesthetic; this merits your thought and consideration.

[tteplitzmd]

I could not imagine buying anything bespoke from Rubinacci, London. There is no one in the Mayfair shop with knowledge commensurate with the prices charged. If you can afford the prices, it would make much more sense to go the workshop in Italy for a first endeavor.

I have no doubt the work is superb, but I think the shop in Mayfair is really a marketing statement. You can see the owner when he visits the Carlyle Hotel in New York and probably do better than walking into the Mayfair shop. In either London or New York, you are, how can I say this politely, paying for the overhead.

Parenthetically, if you are happy with Nicolosi, you may be easier to please than I am, and be happy with the salesmen in Mayfair. In hommage to David Mamet, "some people just like to talk to salesmen." I don't.

There is a great deal to be said for seeking out the small, low profile artisans, as Alden has noted elsewhere.

[iammatt]

I could not imagine buying anything bespoke from Rubinacci, London. There is no one in the Mayfair shop with knowledge commensurate with the prices charged. If you can afford the prices, it would make much more sense to go the workshop in Italy for a first endeavor.

I have no doubt the work is superb, but I think the shop in Mayfair is really a marketing statement. You can see the owner when he visits the Carlyle Hotel in New York and probably do better than walking into the Mayfair shop. In either London or New York, you are, how can I say this politely, paying for the overhead.

Parenthetically, if you are happy with Nicolosi, you may be easier to please than I am, and be happy with the salesmen in Mayfair. In hommage to David Mamet, "some people just like to talk to salesmen." I don't.

There is a great deal to be said for seeking out the small, low profile artisans, as Alden has noted elsewhere.

Interesting, since Mariano is there on average four days a week. You just need to call ahead to find out his schedule.

Overall, I do agree with Uppercase. The best scenario is to have Mariano measure you and deal with fabrics in London, and then to go down to Naples for fittings.

[doccol91]

Thanks to all for the comments, most were extremely useful.

A couple of comments that others might find helpful, as well.

Manton: spoke with Mr. Rubinacci as to the spring/summer issue. One thing he suggested was not going with a spalla camisa, which he said was his fairly standard practice for London suits that were largely going to be worn for business. I also appreciated your views on Richard Anderson.

I guess what I liked about Richard Anderson's cut was it was sort of between the hard and soft styles. I haven't been living in London long enough to go to the hard style, but I am starting to like the more upright stance that British suits tend to have.

As to A&S, I have had a couple of suits made by A&S. For some reason, they are not the first ones I reach for when getting dressed in the morning. My wife also hates them, says they remind her of her grandfather's suits, which with her being an old-line WASP from Maryland, does not surprise me.

Any suggestions on who would be good to bridge the hard/soft style?


iammatt: aah, to live in a perfect world. I wish time would permit the trips to Naples. But, time is not a luxury I particularly have a lot of given what I do for a living.

edhayes: I was thinking about using Steven Hitchcock until I met you in Nicolosi's shop and you were having a suitcoat he made for you redone. Kind of turned me off.

Thanks to all for the constructive advice.
.

[tteplitzmd]

I have been to the Mayfair shop twice, and found no one I would entrust with my order. I have no problem with Nicolosi's workmanship or fit, but the styling I received is unwearable, and similarly, not something I reach for. That speaks for itself. If you end up with something that has no resemblance to what you wanted that is a problem, no matter how esteemed the maker. So, I take 'reputation' with a grain of salt.

Parenthetically, I have stayed at the Carlyle for more than 20 years, and have received solicitations to visit Rubinacci when he is there in NYC. Mayfair and Milan rents, and Carlyle hotel suite costs, have to figure prominently in the 'retailer's' prices. At some point all of this exuberance strikes me as too commercial and spills over into the 'market' that buys Zegna, Kiton, and so on. That said, the Rubinacci magazine(s) were superb, and clearly this is a maker deserving of respect with an illustrious history. One must give high marks on the marketing, but I think ignoring the very, very, high prices is difficult, no matter one's station in life.

[manton]

For halfway between hard and soft, look into Poole.

Also, take a look at Maurice Sedwell. I was just there recently. Look past all the flamboyant stuff on display. He can make a proper banker suit. His canvas was quite soft, but the resulting garment is very defined and clean as a whistle. Might be the best of both worlds, from your perspective.