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odd jacket for summer

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:12 pm
by sartorius
I'm looking for ideas for an odd jacket for the summer. any thoughts?

I already have one in linen, which I love, but want something which I can treat with a little less respect without fear of creasing it too much. I want something versatile, which I can wear with anything from jeans, to chinos, to super 100s.

one thought is corduroy - in a beige or light brown - but my tailor has advised that cord will also crease (being cotton), and tends to be quite high maintenance because of the nature of the weave.

all suggestions welcome!

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:36 pm
by DD MacDonald
Sartorius - you've got a ton of options. The woolen frescos and the open hopsacks could suit if you want a plain fabric,their advantages being textrure and porosity. Taking one step out and looking for pattern, Porter Harding's Glorious 12th, any of the Lesser or H&S collections in weights less than 11 ounces should serve.

Really, too many things to consider without narrowing down the parameters some.

DDM

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 1:48 pm
by sartorius
thanks DDM.

parameters is tricky - I can tell you what I don't want, but not so easily what i do!

the main thing is it has to be casual, but also understated and not too patterned (eg not herringbone) but I don't mind a bit of texture as long as it's subtle.

at risk of sounding like a difficult client who has no idea what he wants, what other parameters would you suggest?

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:00 pm
by DD MacDonald
When in doubt and for an odd jacket I'll always go with a windowpane. I have great P&H light olive cloth with a fairly vibrant blue overcheck. I took a look at the Holland & Sherry site and something like 476016 may be a touch more mellow.

http://www.hollandandsherry.com/collect ... hs167.html

Have fun,
DDM

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:01 pm
by bry2000
Check out the Smith's fresco book for ideas. They have some vibrant solids that may make up well as odd jackets.

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:03 pm
by sartorius
thanks DDM. haven't looked at the H&S site before so will have a browse.

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:50 pm
by sartorius
thanks bry. do smiths have a website?

also, who are P&H? I know Scabal, Wain Shiell, Lessers, Dormeuil, and Holland & Sherry, but not sure who P&H are?

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:55 pm
by DD MacDonald
Porter and Harding

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:57 pm
by dopey
P&H = Porter & Harding and that Glorious 12th looks like a great book, although I have not had anything made up from it for myself.

The Smith Frescos are called Finmeresco and are reatively new. Apparantly, the NY tailors don't have the books here, although I saw them when Dege brought them on their recent NY visit. Alden has written about them in a long thread called something like "Smith's New Fresco" It is current so you should have no trouble finding it. I am a big fan of H&S's Crispaire line, but the Smith 's would be better for your purposes (assuming you wanted to use a fresco) because there is a broad range of beautifully saturated summer colors unusual for a fresco line (much more than I have ever seen in one line - it is almost as broad as a gabardine line) and the hand is much softer and drapey. The Crispaire is a bit stiffer and crisper (which is part of its appeal for a summer suit that you don't want to wilt).

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:19 pm
by sartorius
thanks. have asked for some P&H and Smiths samples in beige and light brown. will let you know what I think.

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 3:23 pm
by Concordia
For marginally lighter weight than Glorious 12th and a less tweedy look, try Hardy Riviera.

For very light weight, the P&H Solway book looks tantalizing.

Re: odd jacket for summer

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 8:09 am
by HappyStroller
How about beige seersucker? Just a thought. :)
sartorius wrote:I'm looking for ideas for an odd jacket for the summer. any thoughts?

I already have one in linen, which I love, but want something which I can treat with a little less respect without fear of creasing it too much. I want something versatile, which I can wear with anything from jeans, to chinos, to super 100s.

one thought is corduroy - in a beige or light brown - but my tailor has advised that cord will also crease (being cotton), and tends to be quite high maintenance because of the nature of the weave.

all suggestions welcome!

Posted: Sat Feb 03, 2007 3:37 pm
by DD MacDonald
Concordia wrote:For marginally lighter weight than Glorious 12th and a less tweedy look, try Hardy Riveira.

For very light weight, the P&H Solway book looks tantalizing.
I was trying to remember whose book the "Riviera" was - do check it out. There are some very simple windowpanes and some really nice and easy gunchecks.

DDM

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:11 am
by Martin Stall
Sartorius, I wonder what your tailor meant by 'high maintenance' of corduroy. When chosen well, you can have an excellent quality cloth that will last you a long time, given a reasonably careful treatment.
Also, not all cords wrinkle that much: again a matter of carefully selecting the right one.

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 9:52 am
by sloaney
Is corduroy legal for summer?