The London Lounge

I posted this in the New Smirth Fresco thread, but it got no responses. I don't know if that is because their are no answers to be had or because the post was lost in the current of the current of the main discussion so I am repeating it here with some additional comment:

John Hardy (I think) has some 13/14 oz three-ply Frescos, mostly in solids. They are very different from the new Smith frescoes (the Finmeresco) in several related ways. The hand is rougher and, in general more old world feeling, which I like. A particular benefit is that the colors have more surface interest and variegation and less saturation than the Finmerescos. For example, there are several grays, some of which have an especially beautiful mottled color.

Does anyone have any experience with these cloths? I find that I use my Crispaire suits nearly year round since the waistcoat can carry them deep into the fall and early winter (the breeze through the legs is a killer in late winter) and these might serve that purpose even better, although the colors I liked and slightly heavier weight were more fall than summer.

Thoughts, anyone?

Dopey, I haven't seen the Hardy bunch that you refer to but I am all for the subtle variations and textrures that you describe. Although lighter in weight, I've had good experience with the H&S Crispaire series for these reasons. I had a brief chance to review the new Smith bunch with Edwin Deboise from Steed. I did not really have much time but my initial impressions were that the cloth had good structure (good) and that the colors were quite saturated (uncertain). At a minimum, it was hard to consider a summer cloth when the wind in Manhattan was blowing at 25 degress so I'm witholding any final judgement.

DDM

I have four samples from the bunch in hand today. They are marked 14/15 oz and 3 ply wool. The one that lost its label had HW marked in the upper left corner of the stock no.

Despite the nice variegation in the two gray samples, I am tempted by the navy. This is rough stuff and looks like hopsack. I am also considering whether I can get away with doing this with patch pockets all around and whether I want it buggy lined or regular lining. Maybe smoke pearl buttons as well. I am thinking the high-twist cloth will make it extra nice for travel and a regular lining will only help it stay crisp looking. The casual details will also help it be extra-useful as an odd jacket.

As for the color, I am reminded that I have a Lesser gray fresco waiting to be made up and certainly don't need two grays.

Any thoughts?

Sounds like you found the right cloth for your intended purpose. I feel unlined (buggy)would be the best way to go as lining will not bring you the dividends in added structure that the buggy treatment will in added coolness.

I have a couple of questions.

Are the Hardy frescos the same as those offered by Minnis (same company)? If not, how do they compared to the Minnis' cloth?

I did not know that Lessers have a fresco range. In which Lessers book?

Thanks.

Dopey is referring to a 14/15 oz. vintage Lesser mohair/wool fresco we acquired a year or so ago. That fabric, sadly, is now gone. I used mine to get buggy lined (+ no sleeve lining) 2pc SB noth lapel suit.

Lesser does not have any frescos in current production that I am aware of.

bry2000 wrote:I have a couple of questions.

Are the Hardy frescos the same as those offered by Minnis (same company)? If not, how do they compared to the Minnis' cloth?

I did not know that Lessers have a fresco range. In which Lessers book?

Thanks.

bry2000 wrote:I have a couple of questions.

Are the Hardy frescos the same as those offered by Minnis (same company)? If not, how do they compared to the Minnis' cloth?

I did not know that Lessers have a fresco range. In which Lessers book?

Thanks.

Judging by the stock numbers, the Hardy frescos I am referring to are the same as on the Miinnis website and therefore, I assume, the same as the Minnis frescos in the books. But I have never looked at a Minnis fresco book to verify this. What I saw were bunches marked John Hardy and, now, individual swatches.

Hardy and Minnis are owned by the same people. I suspect their frescos are made in the same mill. For that matter, even the H&S samples that are marked as "fresco" in the Crispaire and Fresco book must be made in the same mill. These H&S fresco feels similar to Minnis fresco and has a similar selvedge.

Has anyone out there encountered any wool/cashmere frescoes?